1) rather than taking hiking poles, buy one or two sticks in Ollantaytambo. I lost the tips somewhere on day 1 so they were not much help on the rocks.
2) learn more Spanish
3) train more for the Trail by using the Stairmaster as well as some aerobic exercises
4) catch a later flight out of Cusco so can have a lovely morning there and less time in Lima airport
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Things I was glad I took
1) good, worn-in hiking boots - day-hikers would be sufficient - but especially needed where we went downhill to support ankles
2) woolly long underwear, fleece and wool hat - it starts to cool around 4pm
3) pants that converted to shorts - by 10am I was unzippping
4) mosquito repellant - you can't see or feel them but I omitted to spray my legs the first day and was covered in red bumps by camp
5) toilet paper always
6) money exchange sheet from Oanda.com - helped me on the fly to work out my maximum price
7) some idea of an itinerary for the 4 days in Cusco of places I wanted to see - gave me a starting point as tour operators are on every corner
8) large ziploc bags for sorting clothes and supplies to find easily later - ie I put my night gear in one: woolly underwear and head lamp in one, and my toiletries and medications in another.
9) head lamp - it gets dark at 6pm and it is useful to have both hands free
10) bucket hat and sunscreen - everyone looks dorky in their hats but the sun is much stronger in the Andes than in Canada
2) woolly long underwear, fleece and wool hat - it starts to cool around 4pm
3) pants that converted to shorts - by 10am I was unzippping
4) mosquito repellant - you can't see or feel them but I omitted to spray my legs the first day and was covered in red bumps by camp
5) toilet paper always
6) money exchange sheet from Oanda.com - helped me on the fly to work out my maximum price
7) some idea of an itinerary for the 4 days in Cusco of places I wanted to see - gave me a starting point as tour operators are on every corner
8) large ziploc bags for sorting clothes and supplies to find easily later - ie I put my night gear in one: woolly underwear and head lamp in one, and my toiletries and medications in another.
9) head lamp - it gets dark at 6pm and it is useful to have both hands free
10) bucket hat and sunscreen - everyone looks dorky in their hats but the sun is much stronger in the Andes than in Canada
Sunday, September 7, 2008
summation
In all, the trip was much more fun and interesting than I imagined. Much to my surprise, I discovered I like travelling on my own. Every day was a challenge to do what I wanted to do. For example, did I really want to go to Pisac on the local bus enough to actually do it or should I just wander around Cusco in relative familiarity? For once the voice in my head said "just go" and I did and enjoyed myself more as a result. I don't want anyone to think I wasn't watchful of my surroundings or acted insensibly. I lied several times about a boyfriend back at the hotel when people asked me if I was travelling alone. I wore a money belt. I kept valuables in the hotel safe. I stayed close to the hotel after dark.
So although hiking the Inca Trail and seeing Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate had been the original reason for going to Peru, the trip became something much more expansive than that.
So although hiking the Inca Trail and seeing Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate had been the original reason for going to Peru, the trip became something much more expansive than that.
Lima
Despite Monica's best efforts, I hated Lima. She met me at the airport with a sign "Monica Tours" and standing off the side a bit so I spotted her easily. I asked immediately about the boat tour as I had packed my swimsuit in my carry on but forgotten to keep my jacket. It was not going to happen. And I think as a result, Monica thought I would want to hire her for a full day instead of just the pre-arranged 2-3 hours as my plane did not leave until 1:30am.
After stashing my big suitcase with "Left Luggage" at the airport (14 soles for all day), we went out to climb into her old white van. Inside she had fridge magnets from clients' countries that they had mailed to her. Because I had no interest in museums, Monica seemed a little unsure of what to do with me and I had not researched Lima well enough to offer suggestions. Later I found there was a zoo - I would have been perfectly content spending my three hours in there.
Lima was loud with honking and very polluted. And the driving was scary. I quickly got a splitting headache. We drove through about 5 districts, past casinos, shopping centres, the Canadian Embassy, Lovers' Park and some marigolds planted in a reproduction of the Nazca Lines. Eventually we came to some pre-Incan ruins and she asked me if I wanted to go for a look. Out of desperation, I said yes. There was an English-speaking group just starting up so I joined them. Trouble was, the guide spoke so softly I had no idea where I was or what it was for. I also have to admit I didn't really care. The most interesting thing at the ruins were two grey dogs running loose, who had tufts of orange hairs sticking out. I saw my first guinea pigs there too in their reproduction farm.
After about 3 1/2 hours, I told Monica I wanted to go back to the airport. She was shocked but off we went in troubled silence. We settled up, hugged and I felt relieved to be on my own again.
I think Monica would be a terrific help if you had a list of museums or places you specifically wanted to see - she had no problem waiting for me while I was in the ruins and knew her way around the city very well. I also fully recognize 1) I was already exhausted at that point and 2) I am not your typical tourist who is content with standard tourist places.
I am good at killing time in airports and I'd like to thank Starbuck's for making coffee that "is built to last". I had 10 hours to waste and knew if I read my book I'd be asleep in about 10 seconds. So I spent 2 hours in the internet kiosk and 8 hours people-watching.
After stashing my big suitcase with "Left Luggage" at the airport (14 soles for all day), we went out to climb into her old white van. Inside she had fridge magnets from clients' countries that they had mailed to her. Because I had no interest in museums, Monica seemed a little unsure of what to do with me and I had not researched Lima well enough to offer suggestions. Later I found there was a zoo - I would have been perfectly content spending my three hours in there.
Lima was loud with honking and very polluted. And the driving was scary. I quickly got a splitting headache. We drove through about 5 districts, past casinos, shopping centres, the Canadian Embassy, Lovers' Park and some marigolds planted in a reproduction of the Nazca Lines. Eventually we came to some pre-Incan ruins and she asked me if I wanted to go for a look. Out of desperation, I said yes. There was an English-speaking group just starting up so I joined them. Trouble was, the guide spoke so softly I had no idea where I was or what it was for. I also have to admit I didn't really care. The most interesting thing at the ruins were two grey dogs running loose, who had tufts of orange hairs sticking out. I saw my first guinea pigs there too in their reproduction farm.
After about 3 1/2 hours, I told Monica I wanted to go back to the airport. She was shocked but off we went in troubled silence. We settled up, hugged and I felt relieved to be on my own again.
I think Monica would be a terrific help if you had a list of museums or places you specifically wanted to see - she had no problem waiting for me while I was in the ruins and knew her way around the city very well. I also fully recognize 1) I was already exhausted at that point and 2) I am not your typical tourist who is content with standard tourist places.
I am good at killing time in airports and I'd like to thank Starbuck's for making coffee that "is built to last". I had 10 hours to waste and knew if I read my book I'd be asleep in about 10 seconds. So I spent 2 hours in the internet kiosk and 8 hours people-watching.
journey back to Cusco
I met Effrey at 1:45 and we went to the train station, which is rather hidden behind the local tourist market. The ticket master checked my ticket against my passport very carefully. The train turned out to be comfortable and only about 2/3 full. Two men wheeled a trolley with coffee and pop up the aisle once. Many people fell asleep with the rocking. The route back to Cusco follows the Urubamba river - the best views are on the right side of the train, which might be hard to find, as most people sitting backwards. The train stopped several times to let the oncoming train go by and blew its whistle to warn people off the tracks - villagers use the tracks as a path. It took only about one hour and 15 minutes to reach our start point. I looked out at the bridge and thought how far we'd come.
I ended up walking down to where Effrey sat to thank him for his extra help. He was storing my trekking poles and reached for them to give to me. I asked if he could use them and was relieved he was not insulted. I had been puzzling for 2 days over how to phrase the question. He glowed and it made my day.
We got off the train in Ollantaytambo and were met by a GAP van which drove us the rest of the way back to Cusco. Apparently this is the faster option. At the station there were many tourists waiting to buy tickets to go to Agua Calientes. I saw evidence of the strike the tourist on the bus had told me about - the driver had to dodge big rocks scattered across the road in several spots.
By 5:30 I was back at the hotel. Hot shower finally - unfortunately white towels became grey. I ate at my usual steak/chicken sandwich place.
Effrey told me he does 50 trips a year. As the trail is closed for the month of February, I thought perhaps I had misunderstood his answer. But then he said that his next time out was Saturday morning. We got back to Cusco Thursday night.
I ended up walking down to where Effrey sat to thank him for his extra help. He was storing my trekking poles and reached for them to give to me. I asked if he could use them and was relieved he was not insulted. I had been puzzling for 2 days over how to phrase the question. He glowed and it made my day.
We got off the train in Ollantaytambo and were met by a GAP van which drove us the rest of the way back to Cusco. Apparently this is the faster option. At the station there were many tourists waiting to buy tickets to go to Agua Calientes. I saw evidence of the strike the tourist on the bus had told me about - the driver had to dodge big rocks scattered across the road in several spots.
By 5:30 I was back at the hotel. Hot shower finally - unfortunately white towels became grey. I ate at my usual steak/chicken sandwich place.
Effrey told me he does 50 trips a year. As the trail is closed for the month of February, I thought perhaps I had misunderstood his answer. But then he said that his next time out was Saturday morning. We got back to Cusco Thursday night.
Agua Calientes
Agua Calientes is an odd little town with railroad tracks running right through its middle. Restaurants and hostals line either side of the tracks but there are also winding side streets. It seems completely tourist-based, which is understandable as thousands of people visit Machu Picchu every week and pass through the town. Everything is very expensive.
Effrey managed to change my ticket to the 2pm train and directed me to a cheap internet cafe close by where I spent most of the next two hours. It started to pour again but I felt quite cosy wrapped in fleece, writing and sipping my first coffee in 4 days. I decided not to go to the hot springs but just to wait until I got back to the hotel to shower. Needless to say, I had a lot of space around me on the train as a result!
Inca Trail - Day Four
At 3am it started to rain and I lay inside my tent with fingers crossed. It lightened at 4 when we were woken and packed our things. I could see headlights dancing around like fireflies as everyone throughout the campground seemed to be in a hurry today. Indeed Effrey was. Today was the rush to the Sun Gate.
A quick piece of bread and jam and gulped cocoa tea and we dashed down to the line-up. The last check-point did not open until 5:30am. We were about 75 people back out of 200 with 20 minutes to wait. Effrey warned us that people might run up the side of us to get ahead and to keep to the mountain side - just to be sure, "the left side".
Promptly at 5:30, the gate opened and the line started to move. I guess all the rabbits were at the very front as we didn't seem to have any problem with passers. But we also set a pretty brisk pace.
About 30 minutes in, it started to pour. We pulled out our ponchos and kept moving. I had too many clothes on and kept waiting for Effrey to call a break so I could de-layer. But he didn't. I climbed the last steep 50 steps in fleece, swimming in sweat. Bad planning.
In the end, I think Effrey was more upset than anyone about the weather. We waited at the Sun Gate for about 20 minutes, waiting for the fog to lift but it held fast. Then we continued on to the next stop where one gets that famous "tourist above Machu Picchu" photo - same thing there. By now the rain had stopped but the fog refused to budge. We decided to descend into the ruins for the tour portion.
After being rather isolated for 3 days hiking the Trail, it felt a bit of a shock to flow into bus loads of clean tourists and other hikers. So much noise! On the other hand, flush toilets (for 1 sole).
Effrey ushered us around, trying to avoid the groups, but even by 9:00, we were bumping into other tourists while listening to him explain the different buildings. Many people now take the train up the night before and get up early.
Machu Picchu was mystical with the fog lifting, then cascading over the rocks. It is a huge place - I was grateful we had a guide explaining the important areas to us. Some people wandered about on their own with a map and seemed a little disoriented.
I won't go into any detail about the tour and exactly what we visited as Machu Picchu is easy to research. I will say that I was fascinated by the fact that the Incans built earthquake-resistant buildings without the use of mortar. It seemed to me that the Incans were very clever, always testing ways of doing things from growing different crops in the terraces of Moray to leaning their walls slightly to counter tremours. I wondered if they had more earthquakes then so they could test more quickly. Imagine waiting 20 years, or even a generation to see if your hypothesis worked!
After the tour, I said goodbye to the kids and rode the bus with Effrey to Agua Calientes to try to change my train ticket from 7pm to earlier. I was exhausted and it started to rain again, settling in for the day. Now the trek was over, I was anxious to get "home" to Cusco.
A quick piece of bread and jam and gulped cocoa tea and we dashed down to the line-up. The last check-point did not open until 5:30am. We were about 75 people back out of 200 with 20 minutes to wait. Effrey warned us that people might run up the side of us to get ahead and to keep to the mountain side - just to be sure, "the left side".
Promptly at 5:30, the gate opened and the line started to move. I guess all the rabbits were at the very front as we didn't seem to have any problem with passers. But we also set a pretty brisk pace.
About 30 minutes in, it started to pour. We pulled out our ponchos and kept moving. I had too many clothes on and kept waiting for Effrey to call a break so I could de-layer. But he didn't. I climbed the last steep 50 steps in fleece, swimming in sweat. Bad planning.
In the end, I think Effrey was more upset than anyone about the weather. We waited at the Sun Gate for about 20 minutes, waiting for the fog to lift but it held fast. Then we continued on to the next stop where one gets that famous "tourist above Machu Picchu" photo - same thing there. By now the rain had stopped but the fog refused to budge. We decided to descend into the ruins for the tour portion.After being rather isolated for 3 days hiking the Trail, it felt a bit of a shock to flow into bus loads of clean tourists and other hikers. So much noise! On the other hand, flush toilets (for 1 sole).
Effrey ushered us around, trying to avoid the groups, but even by 9:00, we were bumping into other tourists while listening to him explain the different buildings. Many people now take the train up the night before and get up early.
Machu Picchu was mystical with the fog lifting, then cascading over the rocks. It is a huge place - I was grateful we had a guide explaining the important areas to us. Some people wandered about on their own with a map and seemed a little disoriented. I won't go into any detail about the tour and exactly what we visited as Machu Picchu is easy to research. I will say that I was fascinated by the fact that the Incans built earthquake-resistant buildings without the use of mortar. It seemed to me that the Incans were very clever, always testing ways of doing things from growing different crops in the terraces of Moray to leaning their walls slightly to counter tremours. I wondered if they had more earthquakes then so they could test more quickly. Imagine waiting 20 years, or even a generation to see if your hypothesis worked!
After the tour, I said goodbye to the kids and rode the bus with Effrey to Agua Calientes to try to change my train ticket from 7pm to earlier. I was exhausted and it started to rain again, settling in for the day. Now the trek was over, I was anxious to get "home" to Cusco.
Friday, September 5, 2008
Inca Trail - Day Three
Effrey had us up at 5am as today was the "long" day. He became quite anxious when he saw another group heading out before us and urged us to hurry up a bit. My back is killing me today - TG for portable heating pads.
Heading out it was very very steep and Sophie and I were soon down to our usual coping methods - her with her iPod, me cursing silently outward but loudly inward. About 1 hour into the hike, we came to a ruin but it was 100 steps straight up to see it. I took a pass and continued on by myself while the group went up. The path changed to flat and downhill, the landscape from rocky mountain to cool forest. No one was around me at all, which was lovely and peaceful. And so I walked for about 30 minutes and then of course, the others caught up. Across the valley, we could see smoke. Effrey said it was farmers burning their fields to prepare for the rainy season. Then up along the side of the mountain we went, through several tunnels and along narrow paths with sheer drops on the side.
Lunch was on top - freezing cold even with my fleece on. Washroom was funny - in the middle of a field a portapotty on top of a hole in the ground. Door wouldn't close but view was lovely once you managed to balance.
Then after lunch came the stairway to hell - about one hour of steep and uneven stairs down to the next Inca ruin - no way to skip or rush so it was thud! thud! all the way down. The ruin was interesting and gave us a bit of a break before another hour of stairs down. Where the trees broke, we could see the larger ruins, small in the distance, of where we were headed for the last camp. They looked so small I wondered how we would ever get there.
It took about one hour to reach them and when we did, it felt like we had reached the end of the world. This was my favourite moment of the Trail. I remember sitting on one of the higher plateaus and dangling my legs over the edge and feeling very very happy.
Another 15 minutes we were in the last camp: 9 hours of hiking, including breaks. Camp was rowdy as all the groups got there eventually and there was beer and showers to be had. We kept clear though as we were to be up at 4am for the final hike to Machu Picchu. I found it a bit jarring to be in so much noise again and the sound of the train startled me.
That night after dinner, we said goodbye and thank you to the cooks and porters. They were to leave on the earliest train in the morning, taking a shortcut down the mountain with all the gear. Only two carried our duffle bags to Agua Calientes to leave them at a restaurant for us to pick up later. We put all our tips into one pile (150 soles each) and Effrey sorted all the tips out by seniority. Cook and assistant cook get most, then head porter, then a bunch of money to be divided among the others. We all had larger bills when 20s and 10s would have been best. Then he called everyone together and we stood rather awkwardly about when he asked us to say something and he would translate it for them. I said thanks to the two men who brought us cocoa tea every morning. Someone else generally thanked the cooks, others picked specific things like me, so I think we covered everyone. One of the porters moved forward and said he hoped we had had a pleasant journey. In order of hierachy, four of us - the three men in the group and I - handed the tips to the appropriate receiver and shook hands. Then we shook hands and said thank you to each person and the tipping ritual was done.
Heading out it was very very steep and Sophie and I were soon down to our usual coping methods - her with her iPod, me cursing silently outward but loudly inward. About 1 hour into the hike, we came to a ruin but it was 100 steps straight up to see it. I took a pass and continued on by myself while the group went up. The path changed to flat and downhill, the landscape from rocky mountain to cool forest. No one was around me at all, which was lovely and peaceful. And so I walked for about 30 minutes and then of course, the others caught up. Across the valley, we could see smoke. Effrey said it was farmers burning their fields to prepare for the rainy season. Then up along the side of the mountain we went, through several tunnels and along narrow paths with sheer drops on the side.
Lunch was on top - freezing cold even with my fleece on. Washroom was funny - in the middle of a field a portapotty on top of a hole in the ground. Door wouldn't close but view was lovely once you managed to balance.
Then after lunch came the stairway to hell - about one hour of steep and uneven stairs down to the next Inca ruin - no way to skip or rush so it was thud! thud! all the way down. The ruin was interesting and gave us a bit of a break before another hour of stairs down. Where the trees broke, we could see the larger ruins, small in the distance, of where we were headed for the last camp. They looked so small I wondered how we would ever get there.
It took about one hour to reach them and when we did, it felt like we had reached the end of the world. This was my favourite moment of the Trail. I remember sitting on one of the higher plateaus and dangling my legs over the edge and feeling very very happy. Another 15 minutes we were in the last camp: 9 hours of hiking, including breaks. Camp was rowdy as all the groups got there eventually and there was beer and showers to be had. We kept clear though as we were to be up at 4am for the final hike to Machu Picchu. I found it a bit jarring to be in so much noise again and the sound of the train startled me.
That night after dinner, we said goodbye and thank you to the cooks and porters. They were to leave on the earliest train in the morning, taking a shortcut down the mountain with all the gear. Only two carried our duffle bags to Agua Calientes to leave them at a restaurant for us to pick up later. We put all our tips into one pile (150 soles each) and Effrey sorted all the tips out by seniority. Cook and assistant cook get most, then head porter, then a bunch of money to be divided among the others. We all had larger bills when 20s and 10s would have been best. Then he called everyone together and we stood rather awkwardly about when he asked us to say something and he would translate it for them. I said thanks to the two men who brought us cocoa tea every morning. Someone else generally thanked the cooks, others picked specific things like me, so I think we covered everyone. One of the porters moved forward and said he hoped we had had a pleasant journey. In order of hierachy, four of us - the three men in the group and I - handed the tips to the appropriate receiver and shook hands. Then we shook hands and said thank you to each person and the tipping ritual was done.
Inca Trail - Day Two
Official wake-up was at 6am though I heard the porters rustling about, unzipping flaps and calling out quietly "Morning - cocoa tea or coffee, madam?" I opened the inner flap to find two men outside, one holding a tray of cups and the other a steaming canister of tea. Shortly thereafter, as I was packing up my clothes and gear, another brought a basin of warm water and a bar of soap for a quick wash.
For breakfast in the communal tent: bread, jam, quinoa porridge and pancakes filled with apple. Water was waiting outside for us to fill our water bottles. Within 45 minutes we were on our way. Our tents had been taken down while we were eating and were well on their way to the next campsite. I left camp in long pants, short-sleeved shirt, arm warmers, wool hat and fleece. Within the hour I was stripped down to shorts and shirt. It was 8 degrees when we left.
In my notes that night, I wrote: I am in camp right now so it is easy to feel rather kindly about today. It was brutal. Sophie and I ended up alone at the back. The going in the morning up Dead Woman's Pass (1200 metres - steps - up in 3 hours, I think) was so hard, we decided to pick out markers maybe 30-40 steps ahead and just get to that. We had to stop to catch our breath. Thankfully Effrey gave us the room to do so for the most part. My legs felt like jello when we stopped and concrete when we pushed on. I could recover my breath fast enough when we stopped but within 10 steps I was gasping again. Even an emergency sports gel didn`t help. Toward the end, at the high altitude, we were down to 10 steps and a break, 10 steps and a break. The rest of our group made it to the top and were waiting for us. I was having trouble breathing for the last 100 metres. Effrey came up and poured a liquid into my hands, got me to rub them together very quickly for heat and then hold my hands over my nose and breathe deeply. That really helped. I asked him later what that was - aguaflorida, for altitude sickness.
Reaching the top was glorious and for me, my second favourite memory of the trek. It took us 4 hours to reach the summit, including breaks. It wasn`t quite cold enough for fleece on the sheltered side but standing up in the open, I really was happy to have mine. Effrey showed us the glaciers in the distance and told us how much they had receeded just over 3 years. They provide most of the farmers' water so he was worried about how they would make out in the future.
Coming down the other side was a treat for me. After lagging at the back, I positively skipped down the stairs on the other side for 2 more hours, though I almost twisted my ankle a few times. 6 1/2 hours of hiking, including breaks.
The camp is next to a small river. Some of us soaked my feet in the cold water. Luxurious place, for there are toilets that flush and a place to sit, not squat. Beautiful views of the valley. By 4pm I had my wooly long johns and fleece on as it was quite cold. This is the campsite at the highest altitude so the coldest of the 3.
Effrey offered us hot water bottles (gatorade bottles filled with boiled water) - I took one as I had given my heat sticks to the 4 people who froze last night (the warmest night) and it was very cozy in my rented down-filled mummy sleeping bag - I had to take off most of my layers to sleep. Again cards, an amazing three course dinner and then off to bed at 7. I felt bad we had taken that long as the porters sleep in our dining tent and several were shivering outside.
For breakfast in the communal tent: bread, jam, quinoa porridge and pancakes filled with apple. Water was waiting outside for us to fill our water bottles. Within 45 minutes we were on our way. Our tents had been taken down while we were eating and were well on their way to the next campsite. I left camp in long pants, short-sleeved shirt, arm warmers, wool hat and fleece. Within the hour I was stripped down to shorts and shirt. It was 8 degrees when we left.
In my notes that night, I wrote: I am in camp right now so it is easy to feel rather kindly about today. It was brutal. Sophie and I ended up alone at the back. The going in the morning up Dead Woman's Pass (1200 metres - steps - up in 3 hours, I think) was so hard, we decided to pick out markers maybe 30-40 steps ahead and just get to that. We had to stop to catch our breath. Thankfully Effrey gave us the room to do so for the most part. My legs felt like jello when we stopped and concrete when we pushed on. I could recover my breath fast enough when we stopped but within 10 steps I was gasping again. Even an emergency sports gel didn`t help. Toward the end, at the high altitude, we were down to 10 steps and a break, 10 steps and a break. The rest of our group made it to the top and were waiting for us. I was having trouble breathing for the last 100 metres. Effrey came up and poured a liquid into my hands, got me to rub them together very quickly for heat and then hold my hands over my nose and breathe deeply. That really helped. I asked him later what that was - aguaflorida, for altitude sickness.
Reaching the top was glorious and for me, my second favourite memory of the trek. It took us 4 hours to reach the summit, including breaks. It wasn`t quite cold enough for fleece on the sheltered side but standing up in the open, I really was happy to have mine. Effrey showed us the glaciers in the distance and told us how much they had receeded just over 3 years. They provide most of the farmers' water so he was worried about how they would make out in the future.Coming down the other side was a treat for me. After lagging at the back, I positively skipped down the stairs on the other side for 2 more hours, though I almost twisted my ankle a few times. 6 1/2 hours of hiking, including breaks.
The camp is next to a small river. Some of us soaked my feet in the cold water. Luxurious place, for there are toilets that flush and a place to sit, not squat. Beautiful views of the valley. By 4pm I had my wooly long johns and fleece on as it was quite cold. This is the campsite at the highest altitude so the coldest of the 3.
Effrey offered us hot water bottles (gatorade bottles filled with boiled water) - I took one as I had given my heat sticks to the 4 people who froze last night (the warmest night) and it was very cozy in my rented down-filled mummy sleeping bag - I had to take off most of my layers to sleep. Again cards, an amazing three course dinner and then off to bed at 7. I felt bad we had taken that long as the porters sleep in our dining tent and several were shivering outside.
Inca Trail - Day One
I woke at 4:30 with a thousand butterflies inside. Thank God for hot water. As I dressed, I could hear the chirping of phones all around waking others up.
Last night I spent an hour packing and unpacking, weighing and rearranging. Finally my porter bag came in at 5.9kg and my backpack, I think, at the same, even with half the trail mix out! The hotel gave me an id tag for my suitcase so I could claim it later and I left it in the room.
At 6am a van came by to pick me up and inside there were a bunch of kids. We looked at each other a bit dubiously. These were the people I was to spend the next 4 days with? I found out they had been travelling together for the last 2 weeks, which made me feel a bit more doubtful. But then I thought well, could be worse, and I came here to see the Andes, not make new friends.
The van drove on for 1 and a half hours to Ollantaytambo where we could use the bathroom in a small hostal, buy walking sticks, rain ponchos, hats, cocoa leaves, etc. We were swarmed as soon as we got out of the van. Around us, porters were gathering to bundle trekkers` equipment and bags. Most of the porters, we heard later, come from rural communities around Cusco.
After another hour along a gravel road, we reached the start point, km82. There were many other people there - 200 hikers are allowed every day. One of the staff came to give us each that day's snack bag: banana, 2 candies and chocolate cookies. We took our obligatory Inca Trail sign group photo. At the checkpoint, the official had a massive list and carefully checked my name and passport number. Our guide also had a group ticket. He was anxious to put some distance between us and the other groups and off we shot over the bridge and onto the Trail. At first the going was not too bad, comparative to the Bruce Trail pace, and we hiked as a group.
The first break was about 1 1/2 hours in, if I remember correctly, next to someone´s home. The women of the area sold water, gatorade and juice. Porters from all the different companies stopped to break as well and drank chincilla, a home-made sort of grape juice. For day 1, we passed through communities who use the Trail as their sole source of traffic. We had to clear the way several times for men with donkeys laden with goods, even once a small pig bundled up on one.
Lunch was served sitting down in a group tent: maize soup for starters, then fish, rice, and green beans. My first squat toilet. I took a photo, of course. Some manuvuering (sp?) required.
After lunch it became quite hot and I started to fade. Effrey the guide was sweeping right behind me, which I hated. I started to realize that his breaks were scheduled like Lucinda's on the Bike Rally - there was always a big hill after! The last break amused me - a window ledge with the usual gatorade, water and juice but with a sign: "Credit card accepted". A final 10 minute push to the campsite and we were done for the day at 3:30pm.
Today was my bad luck day: 1) I lost my treasured Montreal cap that someone gave me when I was nervous the first year I did the BR. 2) I lost the tips on my hiking poles, rendering them almost useless and forbidden on the Inca Trail rulebook. 3) I started to question my ability to complete the Trek and cursed myself for not training harder (that part didn`t last long as I managed to persuade myself it was not me but the fact I was trying to keep up to 22 year olds!) 4) I fell off my camp stool and scraped my hand.
Effrey was most concerned when I told him I had lost my hat and found a local woman to sell me the ugliest Inca Trail hat anyone has ever seen. (It came in handy later tho) The sun is incredibly strong in the Andes - I had sunscreen on and still got red. The bugs were also bad. I had pants on when we started and unzipped to shorts and got eaten alive.
Our campsite is a little away from the others. My little tent is right at the edge of the "cliff". I was glad I rented the optional thermarest as the default mat was very thin and worn.
At 5pm was tea: popcorn, crackers and jam and of course, cocoa tea. The group played "Shithead" which is a great game. I watched and wrote my notes, set up for the night.
At dinner we were formally introduced to the 2 cooks and 13 porters who would be taking care of us for the next 3 days. Imagine 16 people working to give 7 pleasure. Effrey then asked us to introduce ourselves in Spanish and say where we were from.
Effrey then told us yet again how difficult day 2 was - the others didn`t seem bothered but I was a little freaked out as I had found that first day (the "easy" day) a bit tougher than I had anticipated. Off to bed by 7:30pm - for the star-lovers, there were thousands in the sky. It was completely black by 6.
Last night I spent an hour packing and unpacking, weighing and rearranging. Finally my porter bag came in at 5.9kg and my backpack, I think, at the same, even with half the trail mix out! The hotel gave me an id tag for my suitcase so I could claim it later and I left it in the room.
At 6am a van came by to pick me up and inside there were a bunch of kids. We looked at each other a bit dubiously. These were the people I was to spend the next 4 days with? I found out they had been travelling together for the last 2 weeks, which made me feel a bit more doubtful. But then I thought well, could be worse, and I came here to see the Andes, not make new friends.
The van drove on for 1 and a half hours to Ollantaytambo where we could use the bathroom in a small hostal, buy walking sticks, rain ponchos, hats, cocoa leaves, etc. We were swarmed as soon as we got out of the van. Around us, porters were gathering to bundle trekkers` equipment and bags. Most of the porters, we heard later, come from rural communities around Cusco.
After another hour along a gravel road, we reached the start point, km82. There were many other people there - 200 hikers are allowed every day. One of the staff came to give us each that day's snack bag: banana, 2 candies and chocolate cookies. We took our obligatory Inca Trail sign group photo. At the checkpoint, the official had a massive list and carefully checked my name and passport number. Our guide also had a group ticket. He was anxious to put some distance between us and the other groups and off we shot over the bridge and onto the Trail. At first the going was not too bad, comparative to the Bruce Trail pace, and we hiked as a group. The first break was about 1 1/2 hours in, if I remember correctly, next to someone´s home. The women of the area sold water, gatorade and juice. Porters from all the different companies stopped to break as well and drank chincilla, a home-made sort of grape juice. For day 1, we passed through communities who use the Trail as their sole source of traffic. We had to clear the way several times for men with donkeys laden with goods, even once a small pig bundled up on one.
Lunch was served sitting down in a group tent: maize soup for starters, then fish, rice, and green beans. My first squat toilet. I took a photo, of course. Some manuvuering (sp?) required.
After lunch it became quite hot and I started to fade. Effrey the guide was sweeping right behind me, which I hated. I started to realize that his breaks were scheduled like Lucinda's on the Bike Rally - there was always a big hill after! The last break amused me - a window ledge with the usual gatorade, water and juice but with a sign: "Credit card accepted". A final 10 minute push to the campsite and we were done for the day at 3:30pm.Today was my bad luck day: 1) I lost my treasured Montreal cap that someone gave me when I was nervous the first year I did the BR. 2) I lost the tips on my hiking poles, rendering them almost useless and forbidden on the Inca Trail rulebook. 3) I started to question my ability to complete the Trek and cursed myself for not training harder (that part didn`t last long as I managed to persuade myself it was not me but the fact I was trying to keep up to 22 year olds!) 4) I fell off my camp stool and scraped my hand.
Effrey was most concerned when I told him I had lost my hat and found a local woman to sell me the ugliest Inca Trail hat anyone has ever seen. (It came in handy later tho) The sun is incredibly strong in the Andes - I had sunscreen on and still got red. The bugs were also bad. I had pants on when we started and unzipped to shorts and got eaten alive.
Our campsite is a little away from the others. My little tent is right at the edge of the "cliff". I was glad I rented the optional thermarest as the default mat was very thin and worn.At 5pm was tea: popcorn, crackers and jam and of course, cocoa tea. The group played "Shithead" which is a great game. I watched and wrote my notes, set up for the night.
At dinner we were formally introduced to the 2 cooks and 13 porters who would be taking care of us for the next 3 days. Imagine 16 people working to give 7 pleasure. Effrey then asked us to introduce ourselves in Spanish and say where we were from.
Effrey then told us yet again how difficult day 2 was - the others didn`t seem bothered but I was a little freaked out as I had found that first day (the "easy" day) a bit tougher than I had anticipated. Off to bed by 7:30pm - for the star-lovers, there were thousands in the sky. It was completely black by 6.
Thursday, September 4, 2008
update
So right now I am in Agua Calientes, totally exhausted and ready for the 3 and a half hour train ride to Cusco where I´ll try to write more fully about the trek while it´s fresh in my mind. Aqua Calientes is a small town at the foot of Machu Picchu with the train tracks running right through the middle. Shops, restaurants and hostels line the tracks. Our guide pointed out an internet cafe close to the meeting place and I am feeling a bit more human (albeit filthy) after a hot coffee and a bit of catching up. Surprisingly I didn´t miss the internet at all.
I loved the trek. It was better than anything I could have imagined. The Andes are startlingly beautiful. The going was very very hard. At times, I was desperately gasping for air and my legs turned to concrete. It really did become a matter on mind over matter. Two people from the other group turned back on the first day. I was with 4 21 year olds and 2 24 year olds, and on day one, I tried to keep up and paid for it later. Once I talked myself into thinking with common sense, I walked a lot by myself, many times with no one in sight, and enjoyed it more. It rained today so we were unable to get the standard photo shot of us before descending into Machu Picchu as it was totally covered in dense fog. But for me, it was a climax regardless.
Apprently there was a strike in Cusco yesterday over the high cost of living here and some tourists became a little nervous as there were huge boulders placed in the road and a tree was chopped so it fell over right when a bus went by. Their cab driver took them down side roads to avoid the demonstrations. But it was only for 24 hours so trains, cabs and restaurants should be fully operational by the time I get back to the city.
I loved the trek. It was better than anything I could have imagined. The Andes are startlingly beautiful. The going was very very hard. At times, I was desperately gasping for air and my legs turned to concrete. It really did become a matter on mind over matter. Two people from the other group turned back on the first day. I was with 4 21 year olds and 2 24 year olds, and on day one, I tried to keep up and paid for it later. Once I talked myself into thinking with common sense, I walked a lot by myself, many times with no one in sight, and enjoyed it more. It rained today so we were unable to get the standard photo shot of us before descending into Machu Picchu as it was totally covered in dense fog. But for me, it was a climax regardless.
Apprently there was a strike in Cusco yesterday over the high cost of living here and some tourists became a little nervous as there were huge boulders placed in the road and a tree was chopped so it fell over right when a bus went by. Their cab driver took them down side roads to avoid the demonstrations. But it was only for 24 hours so trains, cabs and restaurants should be fully operational by the time I get back to the city.
Sunday, August 31, 2008
getting ready for the Inca Trail
It was quite the business packing tonight. Ah, the joys of organizing by ziploc. I piled everything on the floor and it didnt look possible to get everything in under 6kg. However my first attempt came in at 5kg so I borrowed the scale, went back to my room and threw more stuff in to peak at 5.8kg. It felt awfully heavy to me. TG at the end, the porters take the sleeping bags and thermarest back with them so I don´t have a huge pile on the train coming back. My day pack, the one I have to carry, is already heavy enough but a lot of the things like food and hand warmers will be gone by the end.
We leave tomorrow at 6am. This will doubtlessly be the one morning I sleep past 5 and then through the alarm, in true BR fashion. I am excited to finally meet the other people in our group.
I went to get a pasta at Chez Maggys and befriended the waiter with my love of soccer. We moaned and ooooed together watching Peru play Argentina on the tv. Soccer: the universal language! I wish I had caught a live game. The Cusco team played yesterday but in another town :( My pasta turned out not to be pasta with chicken and avocado but rather avocado with chopped potato inside, and it was expensive for what it was. I may have to run out for another steak sandwich!
The laundry service opened late today as it was Sunday. My clothes came back ironed and folded very neatly - I think they were in shock!
Well I guess that´s it for a few days. Hopefully I can find an internet cafe in Aqua Calienetes, which is the small expensive tourist town below Machu Picchu and from where we catch the train back to Cusco on Thursday late afternoon. If not, it may be Friday before I can check in again.
Thanks for reading. It makes me feel just a little closer to home.
We leave tomorrow at 6am. This will doubtlessly be the one morning I sleep past 5 and then through the alarm, in true BR fashion. I am excited to finally meet the other people in our group.
I went to get a pasta at Chez Maggys and befriended the waiter with my love of soccer. We moaned and ooooed together watching Peru play Argentina on the tv. Soccer: the universal language! I wish I had caught a live game. The Cusco team played yesterday but in another town :( My pasta turned out not to be pasta with chicken and avocado but rather avocado with chopped potato inside, and it was expensive for what it was. I may have to run out for another steak sandwich!
The laundry service opened late today as it was Sunday. My clothes came back ironed and folded very neatly - I think they were in shock!
Well I guess that´s it for a few days. Hopefully I can find an internet cafe in Aqua Calienetes, which is the small expensive tourist town below Machu Picchu and from where we catch the train back to Cusco on Thursday late afternoon. If not, it may be Friday before I can check in again.
Thanks for reading. It makes me feel just a little closer to home.
last day in Cusco
This morning I was up at 5 as usual and no hot water as usual. So I went for breakfast. When I came back, several young men were pounding on another door trying to rouse their friend. It took about 5 minutes of yelling and kicking to open the door. What a din! I had to laugh though - Just get his shoes on and bullocks (several times) were two things I could make out. Then they carried him off to the front lobby - he was still drunk and had a silly grin on his face. I bet he got a pretty good "bullocking" later.
Hot water returned at 7am - every time I think I have figured out the pattern, it goes woolly on me.
I got back from Pisac at about 12:30pm and thought I would try a new restaurant, Moni Cafe, the vegetarian one that had been highly recommended and which claimed to have the cleanest toilets in Cusco. It was locked up tighter than a safe. I keep forgetting it is Sunday. So then I tried another one in the same area - closed until September 15. Bah!
On my way back downhill, a car turned the corner very fast and almost hit a small child who was crossing without looking. The driver went up onto the sidewalk (sidewalks are about 10 inches higher than the road), scraped his side against the wall for a full 5 seconds and then continued onward without stopping. The child didn´t pause either. I did stop as I was shaking - it happened about 10 feet away from me. An impressive example of German engineering :) - the car was a VW bug.
I bought a steak sandwich (about $1.50) from the same place I been to every day and as it is my last day, bought an Inka Cola to sample along with it. Trouble was when I returned to my room, I realized I didn´t have any way to open the bottle. Typical! I shall wander down the street and ask a storeowner to open it for me. Inka Cola is a yellow pop that is only available in Peru and it is very popular. Tonight is my last night before the trek so I´m having pasta at Chez Maggie´s. I tried to get some yesterday but the cook wasn´t in until 6pm and I was starving.
I have found in Cusco I need to drink water almost continually. It is hot, yes, but very dry and my throat is often parched. The sun is much stronger and I keep forgetting to put on lotion. Today I am quite tired too and preoccupied with packing. While we are away on the Trail, the hotel stores our suitcases for the 4 days we are gone, and then we get a new room for the last night. I also have to figure out what can fit in the 6kg bag and what I have to carry. They lend out a small scale at the front desk so I can play around a bit.
Hard to believe it is my last day in Cusco. We return from Machu Picchu quite late and then the next day I am early off to fly to Lima. I must say I am ready to go, though I will miss my Trotimundo´s coffee and internet access. It has provided me with a little home away from home. Four days was great to acclimatize and get my bearings in a different culture, to see the sights and do a little shopping. Churches and museums are not what turns my crank and I think I have visited almost every shop in this area. I want to see more of the scenery I´ve seen from the bus, the car and the plane.
Hot water returned at 7am - every time I think I have figured out the pattern, it goes woolly on me.
I got back from Pisac at about 12:30pm and thought I would try a new restaurant, Moni Cafe, the vegetarian one that had been highly recommended and which claimed to have the cleanest toilets in Cusco. It was locked up tighter than a safe. I keep forgetting it is Sunday. So then I tried another one in the same area - closed until September 15. Bah!
On my way back downhill, a car turned the corner very fast and almost hit a small child who was crossing without looking. The driver went up onto the sidewalk (sidewalks are about 10 inches higher than the road), scraped his side against the wall for a full 5 seconds and then continued onward without stopping. The child didn´t pause either. I did stop as I was shaking - it happened about 10 feet away from me. An impressive example of German engineering :) - the car was a VW bug.
I bought a steak sandwich (about $1.50) from the same place I been to every day and as it is my last day, bought an Inka Cola to sample along with it. Trouble was when I returned to my room, I realized I didn´t have any way to open the bottle. Typical! I shall wander down the street and ask a storeowner to open it for me. Inka Cola is a yellow pop that is only available in Peru and it is very popular. Tonight is my last night before the trek so I´m having pasta at Chez Maggie´s. I tried to get some yesterday but the cook wasn´t in until 6pm and I was starving.
I have found in Cusco I need to drink water almost continually. It is hot, yes, but very dry and my throat is often parched. The sun is much stronger and I keep forgetting to put on lotion. Today I am quite tired too and preoccupied with packing. While we are away on the Trail, the hotel stores our suitcases for the 4 days we are gone, and then we get a new room for the last night. I also have to figure out what can fit in the 6kg bag and what I have to carry. They lend out a small scale at the front desk so I can play around a bit.
Hard to believe it is my last day in Cusco. We return from Machu Picchu quite late and then the next day I am early off to fly to Lima. I must say I am ready to go, though I will miss my Trotimundo´s coffee and internet access. It has provided me with a little home away from home. Four days was great to acclimatize and get my bearings in a different culture, to see the sights and do a little shopping. Churches and museums are not what turns my crank and I think I have visited almost every shop in this area. I want to see more of the scenery I´ve seen from the bus, the car and the plane.
Pisac
At 8am, I confirmed the bus station address with the front desk and they advised against hailing a cab in the street so called me an "official" one (taxis anywhere in Cusco (with the exception of the airport) cost the same - 3 soles (about $1) and no tip is expected. When I got to the bus station (I really wish I´d remembered to take a photo), I wasn´t sure I was in the right place - just a rough courtyard with more broken-down walls - but there were several men outside directing pedestrian traffic and they quickly took charge of me. I asked the collectivo driver again just to be sure. The bus was almost full (I thought) but I got a window seat at the very back without a problem. At first I was the only tourista but then we were five. Then more people piled on and starting filling the aisles. A young man helped people pile bikes on the roof and big parcels in the trunk. Then we were off. About 5 minutes later, we stopped again and more people squeezed in. It took about 1 hour to get to Pisac. The bus stopped about 5 times to let people off and take on more. It was market day in several communities along the way. I saw a lot of people working even though it is Sunday - women and children out with llamas and sheep, farmers ploughing fields with oxen, men ankle-deep in mud making clay bricks, storekeepers open as per usual. How I wished I could have asked the bus to stop for photos - there were some great shots to be had. But how to take them in a respectful way?
Pisac is located in the Sacred Valley so there were spectacular views along the way of the mountains sloping down to the Urubamba river. On the way back it was less crowded so I tried to take some photos. The road had a very steep drop off the side, not as bad as along the Amalfi Coast, thank goodness, but it was a bit nervous-making.
The vendors were just setting up when we arrived so it was a good time to walk through and get a sense of what was available without too much hassle. Prices were better than Cusco and it was worth it to go. I spent about 2 1/2 hours there and I am quite sure I did not bargain hard enough but was happy with what I got. The torusit buses started flowing in about 10am and then it got a bit busier. At one point I went around a corner and came upon the food market - I looked everywhere for guinea pigs but was unsuccessful. When researching the trip, I found some photos of guinea pigs at the market living in fancy wooden houses, much like doll houses, right next to the cooking pot. Actually I am kind of glad I didn´t - I´m not sure how I would have got them all back to Canada. I also met a cat who was very affectionate and who did not want me to put her down, but I had to go.
I saw a bano and of course, I have to check out every town´s facilities. If you want toilet paper, you have to pay for it before going in. Hmmm. Let´s just say I almost didn´t sit down. After I came out, the old caretaker came in with a hose and showered the floor. Then I had to pay him 50 centavos.
On the way out I came across a festival in the main square. There were several groups of young people dressed in different Inkan clothing enacting certain dances. It seems every day there is a festival or band playing on the town square.
There were a few taxis waiting at the bus stop looking for tourists to drive to the top of the mountain where there are beautiful ruins. If you go, I have heard it is important to direct the driver to take you to the second parking lot, the higher of the two so you can fully enjoy the ruins. The cab driver will return to pick you up. I think one full day in Pisac would be good. Most of the bus tours from Cusco let you off at the market for about 45 minutes and then rush up to the ruins for another 30 minutes and then onto about 3 other places, rather like the old bus tours, See 5 European countries in 8 days.
When we pulled in the Cusco bus "station", there was a man urinating into a stone pool directly in front of us. He didn´t seem bothered by us pulling up right by him. Then another man from our bus went there and proceeded to do the same. It was completely visible from the street.
I had to hail a cab this time as I had no one to call one for me. I got in one and he asked me to get out as he didn´t want to go my way. But another one saw me right away and took me back to the main square, which is two blocks from my hotel.
Pisac is located in the Sacred Valley so there were spectacular views along the way of the mountains sloping down to the Urubamba river. On the way back it was less crowded so I tried to take some photos. The road had a very steep drop off the side, not as bad as along the Amalfi Coast, thank goodness, but it was a bit nervous-making.
The vendors were just setting up when we arrived so it was a good time to walk through and get a sense of what was available without too much hassle. Prices were better than Cusco and it was worth it to go. I spent about 2 1/2 hours there and I am quite sure I did not bargain hard enough but was happy with what I got. The torusit buses started flowing in about 10am and then it got a bit busier. At one point I went around a corner and came upon the food market - I looked everywhere for guinea pigs but was unsuccessful. When researching the trip, I found some photos of guinea pigs at the market living in fancy wooden houses, much like doll houses, right next to the cooking pot. Actually I am kind of glad I didn´t - I´m not sure how I would have got them all back to Canada. I also met a cat who was very affectionate and who did not want me to put her down, but I had to go.
I saw a bano and of course, I have to check out every town´s facilities. If you want toilet paper, you have to pay for it before going in. Hmmm. Let´s just say I almost didn´t sit down. After I came out, the old caretaker came in with a hose and showered the floor. Then I had to pay him 50 centavos.
On the way out I came across a festival in the main square. There were several groups of young people dressed in different Inkan clothing enacting certain dances. It seems every day there is a festival or band playing on the town square.
There were a few taxis waiting at the bus stop looking for tourists to drive to the top of the mountain where there are beautiful ruins. If you go, I have heard it is important to direct the driver to take you to the second parking lot, the higher of the two so you can fully enjoy the ruins. The cab driver will return to pick you up. I think one full day in Pisac would be good. Most of the bus tours from Cusco let you off at the market for about 45 minutes and then rush up to the ruins for another 30 minutes and then onto about 3 other places, rather like the old bus tours, See 5 European countries in 8 days.
When we pulled in the Cusco bus "station", there was a man urinating into a stone pool directly in front of us. He didn´t seem bothered by us pulling up right by him. Then another man from our bus went there and proceeded to do the same. It was completely visible from the street.
I had to hail a cab this time as I had no one to call one for me. I got in one and he asked me to get out as he didn´t want to go my way. But another one saw me right away and took me back to the main square, which is two blocks from my hotel.
Saturday, August 30, 2008
wonderful cat-sitters
I don´t want to forget my two cat-sitters; one sends me reports on how the gatos are doing. Here´s a quote which made me laugh out loud and the fellow next to me snuck a glance to see what was so funny:
"I was in your appt yacking away to the cats for about 15 minutes.. when John´s daughter came up, introduced herself and let me know John had a baby monitor set up (and on!) on your kitchen table to make sure all was fine in your appt. Oops, I hope Ï didn't say too much!"
My poor neighbour stresses about the cats more than I do when I am away. I asked him to check my messages and when I told him it was because someone would hopefully call if one was hit by a car - he was completely horrified at the thought. He said he sits on the floor very still every day until he sees each one. I am scooping out booze to take back as a gift. The local national drink is the Pisco - 34% alcohol. He complains that Guiness is a girly drink so I think that will be manly enough for him.
"I was in your appt yacking away to the cats for about 15 minutes.. when John´s daughter came up, introduced herself and let me know John had a baby monitor set up (and on!) on your kitchen table to make sure all was fine in your appt. Oops, I hope Ï didn't say too much!"
My poor neighbour stresses about the cats more than I do when I am away. I asked him to check my messages and when I told him it was because someone would hopefully call if one was hit by a car - he was completely horrified at the thought. He said he sits on the floor very still every day until he sees each one. I am scooping out booze to take back as a gift. The local national drink is the Pisco - 34% alcohol. He complains that Guiness is a girly drink so I think that will be manly enough for him.
Cusco - day 3
Today was a saint´s day, the patron saint of police. They closed off the streets around the main square and there was a huge procession of police officers carrying the Virgin Mary statue from the Cathedral, straining under the weight. Many people were there in their Sunday best. There was music and dancing by people dressed in traditional costume.
I rode the Tranvia today (about $6 for 1 1/4 hours) and it was a lot of fun. I love old trams and have taken them in many different countries. This one was bult in 1912 and strained to get up the hill to Sacsayhuamán, the ruins above the city. A young smartly-dressed guide spoke very quickly into a microphone- she had to, as she first gave the Spanish version and then the English as we drove past buildings. The route left from the Plaza de Armes, the main square, and meandered past all the various churches but also travelled through regular (ie no-tourist) Cusco past shops, schools and the university. Outside the university there was a stand selling textbooks.
On the Tranvia, I met a young woman, Mara, from Arequipa who was visiting Cusco for two days. She and I got into quite the conversation about life in Peru vs life in Canada. I am very lucky so many people speak at least a little English but it makes me feel ashamed that I am visiting their country and asking them to speak my language. I asked her about schools - parents pay directly even for public school. They can choose whether to send their children to girls-only and boys only schools or mixed is also available. There are also expensive private schools. She asked me about natural disasters and bicycles. I am not sure why she asked about natural disasters. I had trouble explaining that Canada was very big and there were different geological areas. Try doing charades with the word "earthquake" and you´ll get a sense of how unsuccessful I was! I had more success with the bike conversation. Apparently bikes are not common in Peru as the streets are only wide enough for cars and the sidewalks are too narrow as it is. We both agreed that given the high price of gasoline, it would be a good thing if they could somehow make room for bikes.
The Sacsayhuamán ruins looked interesting but the Tranvia did not allow one to get off one tram and pick up a later one at the same spot. We had 7 minutes at the top to take pictures. The view of the city below was amazing.
When I got back to town I rushed about trying to find t-shirts and postcards, soroche tablets, an ATM, a rain poncho and any other last minute Cusco souvenirs. I also decided to pamper myself and have my dirty laundry "done", which will cost me 10 soles (about $3.50).
I saw my first cats today and was very happy to be able to pet one, though he was completely disinterested. He was sleeping on a pile of wool tapestries.
I haven´t really been trying many restaurants, which is regrettable. There is a great variety of them here, like one that serves fantastic South African food. Last night I got Chinese take-out - I had a craving for some vegetables and ginger after eating nothing but bread and meat - and asked for cutlery - all they had was two tiny plastic coffee spoons so I borrowed cutlery from the hotel breakfast room. The restaurant was a blend of Chinese and Peru - a large poster of Christ next to a Chinese figurine is just one example. Anyway, the Chinese food was tasty but a mistake. No further comment needed.
Tomorrow I am taking a taxi to the bus station and then hopefully hopping on the right collectivo (bus) for Pisac, one of South America´s largest outdoor markets, one hour´s drive from Cusco. I decided not to go to the ruins there as well as I want to rest up for the trek which starts the day after.
I rode the Tranvia today (about $6 for 1 1/4 hours) and it was a lot of fun. I love old trams and have taken them in many different countries. This one was bult in 1912 and strained to get up the hill to Sacsayhuamán, the ruins above the city. A young smartly-dressed guide spoke very quickly into a microphone- she had to, as she first gave the Spanish version and then the English as we drove past buildings. The route left from the Plaza de Armes, the main square, and meandered past all the various churches but also travelled through regular (ie no-tourist) Cusco past shops, schools and the university. Outside the university there was a stand selling textbooks.On the Tranvia, I met a young woman, Mara, from Arequipa who was visiting Cusco for two days. She and I got into quite the conversation about life in Peru vs life in Canada. I am very lucky so many people speak at least a little English but it makes me feel ashamed that I am visiting their country and asking them to speak my language. I asked her about schools - parents pay directly even for public school. They can choose whether to send their children to girls-only and boys only schools or mixed is also available. There are also expensive private schools. She asked me about natural disasters and bicycles. I am not sure why she asked about natural disasters. I had trouble explaining that Canada was very big and there were different geological areas. Try doing charades with the word "earthquake" and you´ll get a sense of how unsuccessful I was! I had more success with the bike conversation. Apparently bikes are not common in Peru as the streets are only wide enough for cars and the sidewalks are too narrow as it is. We both agreed that given the high price of gasoline, it would be a good thing if they could somehow make room for bikes.
The Sacsayhuamán ruins looked interesting but the Tranvia did not allow one to get off one tram and pick up a later one at the same spot. We had 7 minutes at the top to take pictures. The view of the city below was amazing. When I got back to town I rushed about trying to find t-shirts and postcards, soroche tablets, an ATM, a rain poncho and any other last minute Cusco souvenirs. I also decided to pamper myself and have my dirty laundry "done", which will cost me 10 soles (about $3.50).
I saw my first cats today and was very happy to be able to pet one, though he was completely disinterested. He was sleeping on a pile of wool tapestries.I haven´t really been trying many restaurants, which is regrettable. There is a great variety of them here, like one that serves fantastic South African food. Last night I got Chinese take-out - I had a craving for some vegetables and ginger after eating nothing but bread and meat - and asked for cutlery - all they had was two tiny plastic coffee spoons so I borrowed cutlery from the hotel breakfast room. The restaurant was a blend of Chinese and Peru - a large poster of Christ next to a Chinese figurine is just one example. Anyway, the Chinese food was tasty but a mistake. No further comment needed.
Tomorrow I am taking a taxi to the bus station and then hopefully hopping on the right collectivo (bus) for Pisac, one of South America´s largest outdoor markets, one hour´s drive from Cusco. I decided not to go to the ruins there as well as I want to rest up for the trek which starts the day after.
further impressions of Cusco
I have been surprised by a few things here and intrigued by others. The streets are devoid of litter although there are few garbage cans, all which seem to located in the squares. There is also hardly any sign of dog poop which is surprising as there are countless scruffy dogs wandering the streets. (Missing the cats, I made friends with one yesterday). This morning I was up early and saw men walking the streets sweeping the sidewalks and picking up any rare litter. Shop owners were washing their portion of the public sidewalk, much like storeowners shovelling snow back home. It seems only tourists smoke so there are few butts lying around like in Toronto.
Most locals wear fleece, sweaters and sometimes down jackets all the time. That is surprising to me as the temperature ranges from about 3 at night to 23 in the day. I peel off my sweater at about 10am and throw it back on around 4. The temperature drops quickly after that and it is generally dark by 5:30/6pm.
Driving is stereotypically chaotic but I imagine there must be a system. I have not seen an accident or close call. Inside the touristy part of Cusco where I am there are few lane markers except around the main square and traffic lights are almost non-existent. The roads are paved with flat stone blocks - larger than cobblestones but as bumpy and quite narrow. Every pedestrian is playing dodge the car. Cars pass each other on two lane, two way streets and honk when someone stops to pick up a passenger. At corners, I think they decide who has right of way by look. Yesterday our driver played chicken with a few cars that had to back up along to the extra space created for pulling over as we were in the more precarious position (ie on the steeper part of a cliff road). Drivers honk to warn of their oncoming when they believe the person or dog or sheep may step into their path. The guide told us gas was very expensive - about $2US a litre. Most of the cars here are small station wagons or hatchbacks with room to cram a few friends in the back. I have seen cars go by so full that faces are squashed against the window sideways!
I think most of the people who work in Cusco live on the outskirts and walk or take the bus in. It is quite steep heading out of Cusco, even in certain areas of downtown. I asked the guide yesterday if it was possible to buy a house and he said no, there were none available. There was no more room. People bus in and board with families or rent shared accomodation. Ellie and Thomas told me there had been a demonstration outside the Cathedral - students protesting the raise in bus fare.
Last night when I was coming here, it seemed the entire Cusco police force had turned up for some kind of drill outside the Cathedral. They all looked very smart, standing 6 deep in their uniforms. Some had long guns with bayonets attached, which I thought was unusual and hoped they were for ceremonial purposes only! A band was playing in the Square and then there was a loud bang - fireworks.
Most locals wear fleece, sweaters and sometimes down jackets all the time. That is surprising to me as the temperature ranges from about 3 at night to 23 in the day. I peel off my sweater at about 10am and throw it back on around 4. The temperature drops quickly after that and it is generally dark by 5:30/6pm.
Driving is stereotypically chaotic but I imagine there must be a system. I have not seen an accident or close call. Inside the touristy part of Cusco where I am there are few lane markers except around the main square and traffic lights are almost non-existent. The roads are paved with flat stone blocks - larger than cobblestones but as bumpy and quite narrow. Every pedestrian is playing dodge the car. Cars pass each other on two lane, two way streets and honk when someone stops to pick up a passenger. At corners, I think they decide who has right of way by look. Yesterday our driver played chicken with a few cars that had to back up along to the extra space created for pulling over as we were in the more precarious position (ie on the steeper part of a cliff road). Drivers honk to warn of their oncoming when they believe the person or dog or sheep may step into their path. The guide told us gas was very expensive - about $2US a litre. Most of the cars here are small station wagons or hatchbacks with room to cram a few friends in the back. I have seen cars go by so full that faces are squashed against the window sideways!
I think most of the people who work in Cusco live on the outskirts and walk or take the bus in. It is quite steep heading out of Cusco, even in certain areas of downtown. I asked the guide yesterday if it was possible to buy a house and he said no, there were none available. There was no more room. People bus in and board with families or rent shared accomodation. Ellie and Thomas told me there had been a demonstration outside the Cathedral - students protesting the raise in bus fare.
Last night when I was coming here, it seemed the entire Cusco police force had turned up for some kind of drill outside the Cathedral. They all looked very smart, standing 6 deep in their uniforms. Some had long guns with bayonets attached, which I thought was unusual and hoped they were for ceremonial purposes only! A band was playing in the Square and then there was a loud bang - fireworks.
Friday, August 29, 2008
massage
I really rushed around yesterday, booking the tour and then a massage. Today I reaped the benefits - an Inkan massage (her description, not mine) for $16 for one hour.
On every corner it seems there are young women asking senorita, massage for you? I found Hampi Wasy through, I think, Frommer´s and as she is a local woman who started her own business, I wanted to give her the money. Her office is located, like so many businesses here, above another with a shared entrance. I walked through a completely separate and stepped over two small children to get to the stairs. I´m getting used to this slowly.
Anyway, I have to go find something to eat and get back to the hotel. It is dark out and they advise us to take care. Tomorrow I finally get to ride the Tram! An easy day in Cusco.
On every corner it seems there are young women asking senorita, massage for you? I found Hampi Wasy through, I think, Frommer´s and as she is a local woman who started her own business, I wanted to give her the money. Her office is located, like so many businesses here, above another with a shared entrance. I walked through a completely separate and stepped over two small children to get to the stairs. I´m getting used to this slowly.
Anyway, I have to go find something to eat and get back to the hotel. It is dark out and they advise us to take care. Tomorrow I finally get to ride the Tram! An easy day in Cusco.
Moray/ Salineras
This morning at 9:15am, I was picked up in a small car. I had expected a tour bus like one of the multitudes going by picking tourists up from their hotels, but no, I lucked out and ended up with one driver who spoke very good English and two young honeymooners from England. So we weren´t rushed about, which was nice. There was only one problem - the tour agency that had hired his services had not paid him my admision fee for Moray and not collected admission from the couple at all. So he paid out his pocket, which later I realized left him skint for lunch - we offered him our extra sandwiches when we saw he wasn´t eating but it wasn´t until later I clicked a rueful damm. Of course, Ellie and Thomas paid him but he was very hestitant in asking, like we would be angry with him instead of the travel agency. One amusing part was along the way he stopped the car by the side of the road and stuffed a friend into the back of the hatchback to give him a lift.Both places are located about 1 hour to 1 1/2 hours outside of Cusco and at a lower altitude. I didn´t really notice a difference except for my headache being gone. On the way back, Ellie offered me a cocoa candy - finally this afternoon I bought some of my own!
Of the two, I preferred Salineras, the salt pools. They were simply stunning with the contrast of the Andes and the valley below. Moray was also very beautiful and comes with a fascinating Inca history. I took a lot of photos but think the postcards make them both look better than I could ever get.In driving out of the city, we saw a lot of farmers living in and around smaller communities. There were cows, sheep, chickens running all over the place. A few times we had to stop and honk to get them off the road. I haven´t seen a llama yet (or a guinea pig, you naughty people!) except for the woman who dresses up anmd comes into downtown Cusco with her llama to pose for photos (1 sole each).
Inca Trail meeting
Last night my guide came to go over the trek to make sure I knew of the supplies I needed and how our days will look. There are only 7 of us - not sure if they know each other or what but I ended up with my own tent! That is a good thing in some ways but if it´s as cold on night 2 up in the clouds as I imagine it will be, I may be missing the extra body. He advised me to get some altitude sickness pills and I think I will heed his advice. I am not suffering too much but we will be going about 1000 metres higher and exerting ourselves.
We leave on Monday at 6am. I have arranged a sleeping bag and thermarest rental through the hotel and have a small duffle bag to stuff those in as well as anything else I would like NOT to carry myself. The total weight has to be under 6kg. Apparently they now weigh the porters´loads at the entry point and cause a ruckus if someone is over. That, I think, is a good thing.
The guide - I must get his name again and brand it on my head or something - also let me know that Aqua Calientes, the town under Machu Picchu, is very expensive. That makes sense but I am glad he mentioned it as I was working out how much money to take.
We leave on Monday at 6am. I have arranged a sleeping bag and thermarest rental through the hotel and have a small duffle bag to stuff those in as well as anything else I would like NOT to carry myself. The total weight has to be under 6kg. Apparently they now weigh the porters´loads at the entry point and cause a ruckus if someone is over. That, I think, is a good thing.
The guide - I must get his name again and brand it on my head or something - also let me know that Aqua Calientes, the town under Machu Picchu, is very expensive. That makes sense but I am glad he mentioned it as I was working out how much money to take.
Thursday, August 28, 2008
Cusco - day one
The flight in was short (about 1 hour 10 minutes), bouncey and packed. Beautiful views of the Andes on the left side of the plane. I wasn´t given any opportunity to choose my seat. I was placed next to two women - I offered them Mentos; in exchange, one gave me a candy to suck made of coca. It tasted pretty good and I think got me through the first stages of the attitude change. After collecting my suitcase, I looked for the GAP rep and couldn´t find him - walked outside and there were all the agents holding signs. By this time, I was almost silly with exhaustion but eager to look out the window on the way into the downtown area. Everywhere dogs running loose, women cooking in large pots by the side of the road, quite a bit of dust.
At the hotel, I was very early for check-in but they scrambled to find me a room. While I was waiting, they served me coca tea. The room is small but adequate and yeah, there is hot water. Coca tea is free 24 hours a day by the reception. I may have to request a change as it is right on the main floor where everyone passes by, but I´ll wait to see. There is a security box at the front desk - I deposited half my cash, my visa and my passport. My iPod is small enough to just travel with me, and of coure I won´t let my friend´s camera out of my sight. The hotel is very close to the main square. I haven´t gotten lost yet but expect to. No worries. I did ask where the "dangerous" section of town was so won´t be heading in that direction.
After sitting for a few minutes to catch my breath, I suddenly felt very dizzy and light-headed. It was then I realized it had been about 25 hours since I slept. I pulled a pillow over my head and crashed for 3 1/2 hours.
The one thing about many of the restaurants here is that they are on the second floor and big signs like we have in Canada are nowhere to be found. I am glad I wrote down some addresses, like this place opposite the cathedral on the main square, Trotamundos. You have to walk through another store to reach the stairs. It has a beautiful view across the sqaure - I ate an avocado sandwich and had a good North American coffee sin leche on the balcony (aprox. $3 if I remember correctly) - faster internet connection, and clean washrooms.
After lunch I visited the South American Explorers Club for advice on the bus to Pisac (apparently easy), to ask for recommneded tour guides for Moray. The trip to Moray has turned into a frustration as the tour agency they recommended wanted a minimum of 4 people and I was unable to find LlamaPath, the one I had planned to go with. I will have to try one of the travel "hawkers" as I want to go tomorrow. I was hoping to book for the morning and have a massage in the afternoon.
I had heard stories about really pushy sellers here but so far no one has been super persistent. I found they were far more aggressive in Puerto Vallarta.
Anyway I still want to try to arrange this tour, so I´m going to sign off now and get back on the hunt.
transport to the airport
I took the TTC after finding out it would cost $45-48 plus tip for a taxi. It was remarkably easy. The bus runs from Kipling every 10-20 minutes depending on the time of day and is covered by the one TTC ticket just like any other transfer. The ride is 20 minutes.
finally off
Right now I am sitting in Lima airport, which is a lot more modern than I expected. The flight left a bit late and took just over 8 hours. The plane was only about half full and I was able to secure a middle three seater to myself and dozed for a while. There was quite a bit of turbulence and one loud bang which had me sit up and start crossing myself, even though I am not Catholic. Just as I was all excited that I only had three hours in between flights, the captain announced the local time (time difference: -1 from Toronto).
Lima airport has an internet cafe, massage, shops and restaurants, as well as ATMs and Money exchangers (exchange rate at those is dismal). I took some soles out (you can choose to withdraw soles or USD) and they came in large bills - oh dear - I have read it is hard to get change and certainly I emptied out the internet kiosk`s till paying 7 soles for one hour of access with a 50 sole bill. There seem to be a few of us camped out here for the night. It is very brightly lit and I do not feel unsafe.
I had a bit of a start when the computer could not find my reservation for the Cusco flight at 5:30am. However we tried another number and located it. Even though it is 4 hours in advance, I was able to check my suitcase, which is a relief. I still haven`t worked out a safe and reliable system for moving money from money belt to wallet and keep having to go into the bathroom! It will be easier once I get to Cusco.
I am lucky in that I can understand more Spanish than I speak but my rough attempts seem appreciated.
I`m so looking forward to arriving in Cusco and see how the altitude affects me and to having a (hopefully) hot shower and sleep.
Lima airport has an internet cafe, massage, shops and restaurants, as well as ATMs and Money exchangers (exchange rate at those is dismal). I took some soles out (you can choose to withdraw soles or USD) and they came in large bills - oh dear - I have read it is hard to get change and certainly I emptied out the internet kiosk`s till paying 7 soles for one hour of access with a 50 sole bill. There seem to be a few of us camped out here for the night. It is very brightly lit and I do not feel unsafe.
I had a bit of a start when the computer could not find my reservation for the Cusco flight at 5:30am. However we tried another number and located it. Even though it is 4 hours in advance, I was able to check my suitcase, which is a relief. I still haven`t worked out a safe and reliable system for moving money from money belt to wallet and keep having to go into the bathroom! It will be easier once I get to Cusco.
I am lucky in that I can understand more Spanish than I speak but my rough attempts seem appreciated.
I`m so looking forward to arriving in Cusco and see how the altitude affects me and to having a (hopefully) hot shower and sleep.
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
the view ahead
Click on the pic below if you need bigger. Me, I find it intimidating enough at this size. Yikes!
It's a bit off, I think on the day 1 time. From what I've been reading, there's a three hour bus ride to km82 and then about a 5 hour hike.
It's a bit off, I think on the day 1 time. From what I've been reading, there's a three hour bus ride to km82 and then about a 5 hour hike.
departure thoughts
I sat outside last night watching the planes go by and thought "wow, in 48 hours, I'll be in an entirely different place with its own language and culture."
I still can't believe I'm going. It's funny how sometimes you think you're standing still but you are actually moving.
Ten years ago my IBS was bad; I stopped eating out completely, rarely went out to events, got extremely nervous going to an unfamiliar place. I could tell you where all the public washrooms were in the downtown core. If I was travelling, I wouldn't eat that whole day or the night before. My heart would start racing any time I found myself in a confined space - a car on a highway, a subway train, a plane, etc. IBS was always at the top of my mind.
Eight years ago my long-term relationship broke up. I stayed home and watched life from the sidelines even more.
About five years ago, I suddenly felt very impatient and restless. I started participating in a charity bike ride which involved rigorous physical training and the exercise seemed to help calm the IBS. I also met a group of strong and funny people who presented me with an alternate view on life. I was ready to hear it.
And now I am here, ready to head off, feeling rather terrified if I am honest. Terrified but determined. I just have to remember to breathe, to laugh, then breathe again.
I still can't believe I'm going. It's funny how sometimes you think you're standing still but you are actually moving.
Ten years ago my IBS was bad; I stopped eating out completely, rarely went out to events, got extremely nervous going to an unfamiliar place. I could tell you where all the public washrooms were in the downtown core. If I was travelling, I wouldn't eat that whole day or the night before. My heart would start racing any time I found myself in a confined space - a car on a highway, a subway train, a plane, etc. IBS was always at the top of my mind.
Eight years ago my long-term relationship broke up. I stayed home and watched life from the sidelines even more.
About five years ago, I suddenly felt very impatient and restless. I started participating in a charity bike ride which involved rigorous physical training and the exercise seemed to help calm the IBS. I also met a group of strong and funny people who presented me with an alternate view on life. I was ready to hear it.
And now I am here, ready to head off, feeling rather terrified if I am honest. Terrified but determined. I just have to remember to breathe, to laugh, then breathe again.
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Registration of Canadians Abroad
If I was travelling further and longer than just to Cusco and environs on my own, I would probably register myself with the Foreign Affairs deaprtment. Here's the link:
http://www.voyage.gc.ca/main/sos/rocapage-en.asp
Instead I have given a close friend a detailed itinerary of where I will be staying and what flights I'm taking. I also made note of how to use Canada Direct and how to call Foreign Affairs for help in case of an emergency.
http://www.voyage.gc.ca/main/sos/rocapage-en.asp
Instead I have given a close friend a detailed itinerary of where I will be staying and what flights I'm taking. I also made note of how to use Canada Direct and how to call Foreign Affairs for help in case of an emergency.
Sunday, August 17, 2008
money issues
"It's a good idea to call your bank and let them know where you'll be and when. First, you don't want to get stuck with a card that won't work because your bank is suspicious of the activity (your card being used in Peru will look a little weird and may raise some red flags)." GAP Watering Hole post
I called my VISA and they took down my travel dates. I'm doing the same with my bank for Interac later this week.
No need for Travellers' cheques as ATMs are readily available. Someone suggested only using swipe-type machines instead of the ones where you insert the full card, in case your card gets eaten. I'm also making sure I can use my VISA as an Interac card just in case!
"Bring in US $$ the amount that is required for "local payment" plus $100 - you'll give the local payment to your tour guide the first day. Otherwise, local currency will be the best currency to use wherever credit cards are not taken. Bring 2 Visa or Mastercards if you're afraid one might not work. (Though I have very rarely found that a card may not work in one ATM, but even if it doesn't in one, it'll almost always work in another).
1. At the airport hit an ATM and take out about $50-100 in Soles for taxi and food and peace of mind.
2. Hit another ATM downtown after you've dropped your luggage off at the hotel and get around $200-$300 more in Soles. If you're on a GAP tour, it should take awhile to burn through that much dough.
3. Anytime you dip near $50 in Soles and see an ATM, go for it. And make sure you use your coins as often as possible - if you don't use them, you WILL not get that money back - they'll just be pretty pieces of metal turned souvenirs. Be sure to use a money belt and put your credit cards, most of your money and your Passport in it for safe keeping when in cities, especially bigger ones. " GAP Watering hole post
I called my VISA and they took down my travel dates. I'm doing the same with my bank for Interac later this week.
No need for Travellers' cheques as ATMs are readily available. Someone suggested only using swipe-type machines instead of the ones where you insert the full card, in case your card gets eaten. I'm also making sure I can use my VISA as an Interac card just in case!
"Bring in US $$ the amount that is required for "local payment" plus $100 - you'll give the local payment to your tour guide the first day. Otherwise, local currency will be the best currency to use wherever credit cards are not taken. Bring 2 Visa or Mastercards if you're afraid one might not work. (Though I have very rarely found that a card may not work in one ATM, but even if it doesn't in one, it'll almost always work in another).
1. At the airport hit an ATM and take out about $50-100 in Soles for taxi and food and peace of mind.
2. Hit another ATM downtown after you've dropped your luggage off at the hotel and get around $200-$300 more in Soles. If you're on a GAP tour, it should take awhile to burn through that much dough.
3. Anytime you dip near $50 in Soles and see an ATM, go for it. And make sure you use your coins as often as possible - if you don't use them, you WILL not get that money back - they'll just be pretty pieces of metal turned souvenirs. Be sure to use a money belt and put your credit cards, most of your money and your Passport in it for safe keeping when in cities, especially bigger ones. " GAP Watering hole post
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Cusco restaurant reviews
How can one pass this up?
Moni Cafe... Pleasing oxygen starved customers since 2001
especially with the enticing phrase
We also use a natural disinfectant to ensure that our ingredients are completely safe for you.
and on another page:
Our toilet has often been described as the cleanest in Perú which we have chosen to take as a compliment.
I'll let you know.
Moni Cafe... Pleasing oxygen starved customers since 2001
especially with the enticing phrase
We also use a natural disinfectant to ensure that our ingredients are completely safe for you.
and on another page:
Our toilet has often been described as the cleanest in Perú which we have chosen to take as a compliment.
I'll let you know.
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Aquas Calientes
"You need to take at least 200 soles extra emergency money as there are no ATMs in Aguas Calientes and higher commission on Travellers Checks."
The "Hot" Springs cost 10 soles. Lunch won't be more than 30 even if I have a beer. A t-shirt costs about 15. That leaves a whole lot of extra soles. I have a weird picture of myself staggering up Dead Woman's Pass with a tire of small bills around my gut!
"When you pay your entrance fee you are given a receipt and on the back of receipt is listed all the minerals that are found in the water - interesting info. The springs offer locked lockers for 1 Sole each and they hand you a key on a metal bracelet. I also understand they rent towels too. There are separate men and women's changing rooms each with nice size private stalls with curtains." (more)
Good to know! I was wondering what I was going to do with my knapsack, sleeping bag and miscellanous shopping.
The "Hot" Springs cost 10 soles. Lunch won't be more than 30 even if I have a beer. A t-shirt costs about 15. That leaves a whole lot of extra soles. I have a weird picture of myself staggering up Dead Woman's Pass with a tire of small bills around my gut!
"When you pay your entrance fee you are given a receipt and on the back of receipt is listed all the minerals that are found in the water - interesting info. The springs offer locked lockers for 1 Sole each and they hand you a key on a metal bracelet. I also understand they rent towels too. There are separate men and women's changing rooms each with nice size private stalls with curtains." (more)
Good to know! I was wondering what I was going to do with my knapsack, sleeping bag and miscellanous shopping.
amusing bits
Of course, many people who do the Inca Trail are far younger than me. I am reminded of this when I research the Trail. Here is an example:
"Don't get drunk on the night before the walk to see sunrise at Machu Picchu and don't get drunk in Cusco before you start the trek!!! Don't take that Lonely Planet guide on the trail, you'll be too exhausted to read it..."
"Don't get drunk on the night before the walk to see sunrise at Machu Picchu and don't get drunk in Cusco before you start the trek!!! Don't take that Lonely Planet guide on the trail, you'll be too exhausted to read it..."
Tuesday, August 5, 2008
obsessing about fleece
I am someone who has a chill in her bones from November to April. Thus, watching the nightly temperature in Cusco hover about 0 and thinking the trail will be colder than that and I'll be in a tent, it's no wonder I am obsessing about fleece. Some say layers are best; others recommend a soft shell with a fleece lining. But then we have an 11 pound limit (including the sleeping bag and thermarest) to what we can ask our porter to carry -- the rest we have to carry. So here I am, with 2 weeks to go and at the height of summer when fleece selection is limited, madly trying to figure out what the lightest and warmest combination would be.
One tip I read on a forum: At night try to get some hot water from the porters to fill your drink bottle so you can have something hot at the foot of your sleeping bag.
One tip I read on a forum: At night try to get some hot water from the porters to fill your drink bottle so you can have something hot at the foot of your sleeping bag.
Thursday, July 31, 2008
sign of the times
According to Zerofootprint (who has a partnership with Air Canada), my round-trip flight to Lima will generate 1.3 tons of carbon emissions. I am asked to cough up $20.80 to cover my personal share of the flights. I dutifully do so.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
faith restored
I heard from Monica late last night. Peru has been celebrating their Independence Day over a long weekend! I had checked national holidays for my visit period but hadn't really considered the time before as impacting in any way.
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
donde estas?
Sadly I am starting to wonder if I've been had. I sent the $50 to Monica last Friday for the boat trip ticket and asked her to let me know when she'd received it. Silence. She usually took 2 days to return emails - we are now going on 4 days. I am not sure how I could have avoided this - I had to send money to someone to buy the ticket and she was recommended on several travel sites as well as on the South American Explorers Club site. $50 to me is an annoying but not huge amount to lose - to a Peruvian working in the tourist industry, it is a lot of money. I'll wait and see.
Sunday, July 27, 2008
duct tape
I was walking with someone yesterday and told him about my trip. Duct tape, he said. Excuse me? He was referring to the adventure racer's practice of covering blisters with duct tape (if you're interested in this kind of information, I heartily recommend tracking down the Eco-Challenge series). I hadn't really framed the Inca Trail as an adventure race but after a sudden vision of myself battling up Dead Woman's Pass, exhausted and sore, I could see the parallels.
So added to the latest version of the packing list (which is version 5.6, if I remember correctly) will be one smallish roll of duct tape... just in case.
So added to the latest version of the packing list (which is version 5.6, if I remember correctly) will be one smallish roll of duct tape... just in case.
Saturday, July 26, 2008
up, up, up, down, up, down
The Inca Trail is a 4 day hike of 45kms. (For a great chart of the climbs and drops, see here.) Most travel companies bus people to "kilometre 82" (the start of the trail) and it's a 12-14km or so hike to the first campsite, which as far as I can tell, takes about 5-6 hours. That's the easy part.
Day 2 is the commonly-known "killer" day - During this part of the trail hikers are exposed to the Andean elements: first scorching sun and then, closer to the pass, freezing winds. 12kms, 9-11 hours hiking from 3000 meters (9,842 feet) to 4200 meters (13,779 feet), the Trail's highest point at Dead Woman's Pass. There is a celebratory shot of something at the top if you can catch your breath enough to gasp it down.
Day 3 sounds hard in a different way: steps, 2000 of them, going down. I think this is where my poles will come in handy. Beer, advil and a tepid shower at the third campsite. (16km, aprox. 6 hours)
Day 4: I'll be high on adrenalin so nothing will matter. We rise at 4:00am and trapse 5km (under 2 hours) in the dark to the Sun Gate to watch the sunrise over Machu Picchu.
Today I'm going on my second hike with the Bruce Trail Club (18km). These "practice" hikes are good for wearing in the new boots, building some leg muscle and learning where the trouble spots are. The first time I went, my feet were on fire for the last 10km and I couldn't stand that night. I now know all about blister surgery - which is surprisingly easy and painless - moleskin, socks, etc. I believe you can read all you want to prepare but that you also have to get out there and feel it.
Day 2 is the commonly-known "killer" day - During this part of the trail hikers are exposed to the Andean elements: first scorching sun and then, closer to the pass, freezing winds. 12kms, 9-11 hours hiking from 3000 meters (9,842 feet) to 4200 meters (13,779 feet), the Trail's highest point at Dead Woman's Pass. There is a celebratory shot of something at the top if you can catch your breath enough to gasp it down.
Day 3 sounds hard in a different way: steps, 2000 of them, going down. I think this is where my poles will come in handy. Beer, advil and a tepid shower at the third campsite. (16km, aprox. 6 hours)
Day 4: I'll be high on adrenalin so nothing will matter. We rise at 4:00am and trapse 5km (under 2 hours) in the dark to the Sun Gate to watch the sunrise over Machu Picchu.
Today I'm going on my second hike with the Bruce Trail Club (18km). These "practice" hikes are good for wearing in the new boots, building some leg muscle and learning where the trouble spots are. The first time I went, my feet were on fire for the last 10km and I couldn't stand that night. I now know all about blister surgery - which is surprisingly easy and painless - moleskin, socks, etc. I believe you can read all you want to prepare but that you also have to get out there and feel it.
Friday, July 25, 2008
surprise expenses
It never occurred to me that I would have to pay for my Hep A/B shot. My Tetanus one had been free, after all. I was surprised when the doctor's ofice asked for my drug store number and even more so when the pharmacist handed me the serum and said "keep it in the fridge until your doctor's appointment." $70 including that annoying pharmacy fee and that's just for round one! The good news is it will last the rest of my travelling days. I'll be able to guzzle dirty water and nibble on raw fish whenever I like!
Monica asked me to send her the boat tour money via Western Union. I zipped over to their website and was peeved to find it would cost me $20 to send $52. Surely there must be a cheaper way. After visiting a Money Mart (we're only a small branch, honey, we don't do that here), a Walmart (sorry miss, machine's broken) and another Money Mart, I ended up paying $10 instead of $20. Is online convenience really worth double the price?
Monica asked me to send her the boat tour money via Western Union. I zipped over to their website and was peeved to find it would cost me $20 to send $52. Surely there must be a cheaper way. After visiting a Money Mart (we're only a small branch, honey, we don't do that here), a Walmart (sorry miss, machine's broken) and another Money Mart, I ended up paying $10 instead of $20. Is online convenience really worth double the price?
Thursday, July 24, 2008
sea lions, yippee
Monica has been very helpful and is going to book me on an afternoon boat tour to visit the sea lions. At first she told me the tour was in the evening - I guessed this was a mistranslation so asked for the actual departure time, which is 14:30. I was having trouble envisioning swimming with beasts of the sea at night!
After the cruise, she will meet me and show me around Lima for a few hours. Thankfully, no museums as they will all be closed by then.
All in all, I think about $90-100 for the day.
After the cruise, she will meet me and show me around Lima for a few hours. Thankfully, no museums as they will all be closed by then.
All in all, I think about $90-100 for the day.
money issues
Here's a few tips I've gleaned from other travellers' websites:
When you arrive in Perú, it is best to do so with U.S. dollars. While most western currency can be exchanged for Peruvian Soles rather easily, any shop, restaurant, or business will take U.S. dollars as payment. This cannot be said readily of all other western currency. Be prepared however to receive your change in Soles. It is a good idea not to use bills in excess of $10-$20 U.S., as you might find it difficult for the merchant to change anything larger. There are money changing booths almost everywhere in every major Peruvian city in the Plaza de Armas and their hours and rates are usually better than the local banks. (Source: Orquidea Tours)
It's wise to exchange American dollars in the smallest notes you can get and horde as many small notes and coins as possible throughout your holiday travel in Peru. Change is often scarce and it's cheaper to provide small notes to the many people who expect a tip in Peru. Make sure the American dollars you carry with you don't have rips or other damage, and hide/guard your money closely. (Source: Peru Holiday Advice)
When you travel you need to look at every bill and coin that you exchange. Whether it be on the street, in banks, change from your meal at a restaurant, or buying souvenirs, you must examine the money. Not only is there counterfeit in circulation, but many countries will not accept bills that are torn or excessively wrinkled.
To protect yourself from bad exchanges, you need to know what a good bill looks like. These days bills all over the world have a thin strip hidden inside them, often with the bill's denomination. Also a watermark is included of the person's face that is on the bill. The strip and watermark can be seen by holding the bill up to the light. For example, in Peru a good bill of one hundred soles has a strip that says "Peru 100" and a watermark of the face of Jorge Grohmann, which also appears on the face of the bill. The surface of the bill is a little rough. Other bills have a different watermark, such as "Peru 50" or "Peru 20", depending on the bill's value.
Once you know how to spot bad money, you can make exchanges. Look at every bill and coin handed to you, and if you don't like what you see, ask the person to exchange it. This is a common practice. (Source: Protect your money: Tips for travelling in Peru)
When you arrive in Perú, it is best to do so with U.S. dollars. While most western currency can be exchanged for Peruvian Soles rather easily, any shop, restaurant, or business will take U.S. dollars as payment. This cannot be said readily of all other western currency. Be prepared however to receive your change in Soles. It is a good idea not to use bills in excess of $10-$20 U.S., as you might find it difficult for the merchant to change anything larger. There are money changing booths almost everywhere in every major Peruvian city in the Plaza de Armas and their hours and rates are usually better than the local banks. (Source: Orquidea Tours)
It's wise to exchange American dollars in the smallest notes you can get and horde as many small notes and coins as possible throughout your holiday travel in Peru. Change is often scarce and it's cheaper to provide small notes to the many people who expect a tip in Peru. Make sure the American dollars you carry with you don't have rips or other damage, and hide/guard your money closely. (Source: Peru Holiday Advice)
When you travel you need to look at every bill and coin that you exchange. Whether it be on the street, in banks, change from your meal at a restaurant, or buying souvenirs, you must examine the money. Not only is there counterfeit in circulation, but many countries will not accept bills that are torn or excessively wrinkled.
To protect yourself from bad exchanges, you need to know what a good bill looks like. These days bills all over the world have a thin strip hidden inside them, often with the bill's denomination. Also a watermark is included of the person's face that is on the bill. The strip and watermark can be seen by holding the bill up to the light. For example, in Peru a good bill of one hundred soles has a strip that says "Peru 100" and a watermark of the face of Jorge Grohmann, which also appears on the face of the bill. The surface of the bill is a little rough. Other bills have a different watermark, such as "Peru 50" or "Peru 20", depending on the bill's value.
Once you know how to spot bad money, you can make exchanges. Look at every bill and coin handed to you, and if you don't like what you see, ask the person to exchange it. This is a common practice. (Source: Protect your money: Tips for travelling in Peru)
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
vaccinations
I didn't rush out to get the Hepatitis A & B shot (recommended for travel within Peru - if going to the Amazon, need yellow fever as well) but apparently I should have. I had presumed it was one shot but it turns out to be 2 or 3 shots over 6 months. Oops. Maybe they should mention that in the tv ad.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Lima - in between flights
The biggest problem I am facing in my planning is trying to arrange something to do while in between return flights in Lima. I expect tours will be available with every wheezing breath in Cusco so am going a bit free in terms of pre-organzing there but Lima is tricky. Most of the tours I find start at 9:00 or 10:00am from your hotel (which of course, I don't have) - I won't land until 10:40am. Then I am stuck until my 1:30AM flight home.
The tour I really want to do is a boat "cruise" to Palomino Island which leaves from Callao, the port, which is actually not too far from the airport. I am unclear as to whether one can just go there by taxi and there will be many boats going in the afternoon, actually make that any boats. If I could just get that information, I would be satisfied. However the few tours that have websites are out of date and 3/7 have not responded at all to my emails. I am really wishing I had kept my Spanish up so I could be certain of the answers I'm getting.
I also note that I am running into some problems as a solo traveller - of course they would be willing to do a tour or hike or horseback riding for two, three, six people but not for just me, or at a very high cost. I understand that but it's a little frustrating. Hopefully I'll meet some people in Cusco to tag along with.
I did hear back from Monica, a recommended independent Lima guide. I told her please, no museums - hopefully she will understand that I would like to see what she loves about her hometown. I asked her to think where she would take a friend from another city. I think I will try to go with her regardless even if she insists on shepherding me around the major tourist places - she is $12/hour and will pick me up at the airport, drop me off again. She answered my email quickly and says she can help me with the boat tour.
The tour I really want to do is a boat "cruise" to Palomino Island which leaves from Callao, the port, which is actually not too far from the airport. I am unclear as to whether one can just go there by taxi and there will be many boats going in the afternoon, actually make that any boats. If I could just get that information, I would be satisfied. However the few tours that have websites are out of date and 3/7 have not responded at all to my emails. I am really wishing I had kept my Spanish up so I could be certain of the answers I'm getting.
I also note that I am running into some problems as a solo traveller - of course they would be willing to do a tour or hike or horseback riding for two, three, six people but not for just me, or at a very high cost. I understand that but it's a little frustrating. Hopefully I'll meet some people in Cusco to tag along with.
I did hear back from Monica, a recommended independent Lima guide. I told her please, no museums - hopefully she will understand that I would like to see what she loves about her hometown. I asked her to think where she would take a friend from another city. I think I will try to go with her regardless even if she insists on shepherding me around the major tourist places - she is $12/hour and will pick me up at the airport, drop me off again. She answered my email quickly and says she can help me with the boat tour.
Sunday, July 20, 2008
the overall itinerary
Wednesday, August 27: fly to Lima, arrive midnight, try to check in luggage early for Cusco flight or use the Left luggage service at the airport, camp out by the food court with all the other backpackers overnight. (travel day)
Thursday, August 28: fly to Cusco (5:40am), try to check-in to hotel early; sleep, drink cocoa tea (to acclimatize); eat; go to Tourist office and get Tourist ticket, maps, etc.; go to South American Explorers' clubhouse; maybe take trolley tour around city; generally get oriented (easy day)
Friday, August 29: tour
Saturday, August 30: tour
Places I'd like to see: Maras & Moray (organized tour), Sacsayhuaman (on horseback?)
Things I'd like to do: watch a live soccer game; get a massage or two or three; eat at the Hare Krishna restaurant; wander around the San Blas district; ride a local bus
Sunday, August 31: Pisac on own - public bus, taxi; trek packing/orientation (1 hour bus ride for $1)
Monday, September 1 - Thursday, September 4: Inca Trail; return to Cusco early evening
Friday, September 5: fly to Lima (9:40am); leave luggage at airport; either go to Port for boat tour of Las Islas Palomino or hire private tour guide; flight home 1:30am (travel, tour day)
This is just a rough outline so I have some structure to fall back on but also to make sure I see what I consider the essentials.
A note: I don't consider eating cuy or guinea pig an essential experience, especially after reading it arrives on the plate, head attached and feet in the air. Ugh. I have drilled that Spanish word into my head so I don't order it accidentally.
Thursday, August 28: fly to Cusco (5:40am), try to check-in to hotel early; sleep, drink cocoa tea (to acclimatize); eat; go to Tourist office and get Tourist ticket, maps, etc.; go to South American Explorers' clubhouse; maybe take trolley tour around city; generally get oriented (easy day)
Friday, August 29: tour
Saturday, August 30: tour
Places I'd like to see: Maras & Moray (organized tour), Sacsayhuaman (on horseback?)
Things I'd like to do: watch a live soccer game; get a massage or two or three; eat at the Hare Krishna restaurant; wander around the San Blas district; ride a local bus
Sunday, August 31: Pisac on own - public bus, taxi; trek packing/orientation (1 hour bus ride for $1)
Monday, September 1 - Thursday, September 4: Inca Trail; return to Cusco early evening
Friday, September 5: fly to Lima (9:40am); leave luggage at airport; either go to Port for boat tour of Las Islas Palomino or hire private tour guide; flight home 1:30am (travel, tour day)
This is just a rough outline so I have some structure to fall back on but also to make sure I see what I consider the essentials.
A note: I don't consider eating cuy or guinea pig an essential experience, especially after reading it arrives on the plate, head attached and feet in the air. Ugh. I have drilled that Spanish word into my head so I don't order it accidentally.
footwear for the Inca Trail
Apparently some people do the entire 4 day trek in sneakers but I wasn't going to be one of them. I won't go into the dreary details of shlepping about town trying to find a pair of decent walking boots. I'll just offer the following suggestions:
- try to shop for them at the end of the day when your feet are tired and swollen
- wear the socks you will have on when wearing the boots
- buy light and buy waterporoof
- look for ankle support
- don't buy them if they're uncomfortable (probably the most important tip - I have a hard time with new shoes in general so didn't believe this was possible - it is - keep looking)
Most stores will allow you to exhange or return the boots if you keep the receipt and the box, and if you've only worn them inside your home. Ask what the return policy is before handing over your cash. (BTW, I have a hardly-used pair of North Face boots, women's size 8, if anyone's interested. Going cheap! lol)
Another thing: Buy them early and wear them in! I am wearing mine walking about the city but also on hikes with the Toronto Bruce Trail Club (which organizes bus trips for weekend hikes). After trying three different brands, I settled for Keens (Targhee II Mid) from MEC. They are surprisingly listed as Light trail shoes but I am optomistic they will be adequate.
Some other travel bloggers have recommended bringing a pair of sandals on the trek to wear in camp (with socks, as it is apparently quite cold up there in the Andes!) but also for the shower at the end of day 3. It can get a little knarly.
- try to shop for them at the end of the day when your feet are tired and swollen
- wear the socks you will have on when wearing the boots
- buy light and buy waterporoof
- look for ankle support
- don't buy them if they're uncomfortable (probably the most important tip - I have a hard time with new shoes in general so didn't believe this was possible - it is - keep looking)
Most stores will allow you to exhange or return the boots if you keep the receipt and the box, and if you've only worn them inside your home. Ask what the return policy is before handing over your cash. (BTW, I have a hardly-used pair of North Face boots, women's size 8, if anyone's interested. Going cheap! lol)
Another thing: Buy them early and wear them in! I am wearing mine walking about the city but also on hikes with the Toronto Bruce Trail Club (which organizes bus trips for weekend hikes). After trying three different brands, I settled for Keens (Targhee II Mid) from MEC. They are surprisingly listed as Light trail shoes but I am optomistic they will be adequate.
Some other travel bloggers have recommended bringing a pair of sandals on the trek to wear in camp (with socks, as it is apparently quite cold up there in the Andes!) but also for the shower at the end of day 3. It can get a little knarly.
Inca Trail - head's up
I almost waited too long to book my place on the trek. The Peruvian government has limited the number of total trekkers that can start the Trail on any given day to 200. I eeked onto that list for September 1, booking way back on April 18.
Another mistake on my part: I had read this, of course, in my prior research on the Inca Trail but was watching the GAP Adventures website for the tour to "guarantee" before I booked. My thought was what if I book my flight and they can't get the minimum number? Then, suddenly, overnight it seemed, my trip's status went from available to waiting list. I rushed down to the GAP Adventures office in a frenzy.
I was on a "let's wait and see" list over the weekend so as a back-up plan, emailed Peru Treks, a highly-reputable local trekking company and asked if they had space. A swift response supplied me with all the information but stressed urgency. It was with some regret that I emailed them back Monday afternoon to say that GAP had come through for me. If I had been more experienced at solo travel, I would have liked to have booked with them.
Another mistake on my part: I had read this, of course, in my prior research on the Inca Trail but was watching the GAP Adventures website for the tour to "guarantee" before I booked. My thought was what if I book my flight and they can't get the minimum number? Then, suddenly, overnight it seemed, my trip's status went from available to waiting list. I rushed down to the GAP Adventures office in a frenzy.
I was on a "let's wait and see" list over the weekend so as a back-up plan, emailed Peru Treks, a highly-reputable local trekking company and asked if they had space. A swift response supplied me with all the information but stressed urgency. It was with some regret that I emailed them back Monday afternoon to say that GAP had come through for me. If I had been more experienced at solo travel, I would have liked to have booked with them.
flights
I looked at flights before I picked my trip dates. As soon as I found Air Canada offers the only direct flight to Lima (one cannot fly direct to Cusco), I stopped researching other airlines through Travelocity.ca and other such flight comparision flights and focussed on dates. Flying is torturous for me. Once I knew what dates were available, then I booked my trip with GAP Adventures.
GAP also booked my Lima to Cusco return airline ticket, though looking back, I could have taken care of that myself as LAN Peru has a good website. I think I did it that way so they would be sure to meet me at Cusco airport as I am flying in 2 days before the rest of the group.
One experiment I am trying is seat selection. When you purchase your ticket on the Air Canada website, you can choose your seat ahead of time by way of a handy diagram indicating whaich seats are already taken. The plane was about 1/3 full. On the way down, I chose a window seat, hoping that no one would claim the aisle seat. On the way back (which is a night flight, leaving Lima at 1:30am), I chose an aisle in a row of three, hoping people would be mainly travelling in pairs. Interestingly enough, today I logged on and someone had chosen the aisle seat in my pair, but my three was still intact. So I changed my seat to another three. It's night anyway - I really just wanted a window to lean my head against. It will be interesting to see what happens.
Air Canada also has the ability to fill in your traveller's information (compulsory afater 9/11) and to obtain your boarding pass in advance so it is well-worth exploring. The site is secure and they send you an e-ticket shortly after you pay with your credit card.
A mistake I almost made: The return flight was listed as being on Saturday at 1:30am. For some reason, I misread that and thought I would have all day Saturday in Lima. Luckily I reread it before booking with GAP or I would have to change a lot of plans!
GAP also booked my Lima to Cusco return airline ticket, though looking back, I could have taken care of that myself as LAN Peru has a good website. I think I did it that way so they would be sure to meet me at Cusco airport as I am flying in 2 days before the rest of the group.
One experiment I am trying is seat selection. When you purchase your ticket on the Air Canada website, you can choose your seat ahead of time by way of a handy diagram indicating whaich seats are already taken. The plane was about 1/3 full. On the way down, I chose a window seat, hoping that no one would claim the aisle seat. On the way back (which is a night flight, leaving Lima at 1:30am), I chose an aisle in a row of three, hoping people would be mainly travelling in pairs. Interestingly enough, today I logged on and someone had chosen the aisle seat in my pair, but my three was still intact. So I changed my seat to another three. It's night anyway - I really just wanted a window to lean my head against. It will be interesting to see what happens.
Air Canada also has the ability to fill in your traveller's information (compulsory afater 9/11) and to obtain your boarding pass in advance so it is well-worth exploring. The site is secure and they send you an e-ticket shortly after you pay with your credit card.
A mistake I almost made: The return flight was listed as being on Saturday at 1:30am. For some reason, I misread that and thought I would have all day Saturday in Lima. Luckily I reread it before booking with GAP or I would have to change a lot of plans!
intro
I am heading to trek the Inca Trail on September 1, my first major trip in 7 years and my first ever solo travel experience as an adult. This blog will detail my research - good sources and the challenges of finding online information on activities off the beaten tourist circuit - the training (or lack thereof!), the shopping and finally, the actual trip itself.
Apparently Internet cafes are easier to find than toilet paper in Cusco so I hope to update every day from Cusco and then again when I finish the trek.
I tend to lean heavy on the digging and burrowing side so it may be a bit TMI - feel free to weed out what may be helpful by using the labels tool provided by Blogger. When you find a post on a topic of interest, click on the appropriate label at the bottom (below comments). That will pull up all the scattered posts with the same label.
As I haven't travelled on my own for a very long time, my initial plan had been to book a tour with GAP Adventures that included the Inca Trail. GAP Adventures is a Canadian company which was named the #1 "Do It All Outfitter on Earth" by National Geographic Adventure magazine's survey of Best Adventure Travel Companies in the World! (2007). However, the more I read about altitude sickness, the more I leaned toward spending a few extra days in Cusco to acclimatize. I also had little interest in visiting Lake Titicaca or the Amazon, which most of the tours included. So in the end, I booked the Independent Inca Discovery tour and added 2 extra nights to the front of it. I'll have 4 full days on my own in Cusco and then 4 on the Inca Trail with a group of up to 16 trekkers.
So I will be departing Toronto in the evening of Wednesday, August 27 and returning Saturday, September 6 in the morning. The dates were chosen as July and August are the busiest so I wanted to avoid them but I want to take a course that begins the second week of September. This seemed the best compromise.
Apparently Internet cafes are easier to find than toilet paper in Cusco so I hope to update every day from Cusco and then again when I finish the trek.
I tend to lean heavy on the digging and burrowing side so it may be a bit TMI - feel free to weed out what may be helpful by using the labels tool provided by Blogger. When you find a post on a topic of interest, click on the appropriate label at the bottom (below comments). That will pull up all the scattered posts with the same label.
As I haven't travelled on my own for a very long time, my initial plan had been to book a tour with GAP Adventures that included the Inca Trail. GAP Adventures is a Canadian company which was named the #1 "Do It All Outfitter on Earth" by National Geographic Adventure magazine's survey of Best Adventure Travel Companies in the World! (2007). However, the more I read about altitude sickness, the more I leaned toward spending a few extra days in Cusco to acclimatize. I also had little interest in visiting Lake Titicaca or the Amazon, which most of the tours included. So in the end, I booked the Independent Inca Discovery tour and added 2 extra nights to the front of it. I'll have 4 full days on my own in Cusco and then 4 on the Inca Trail with a group of up to 16 trekkers.
So I will be departing Toronto in the evening of Wednesday, August 27 and returning Saturday, September 6 in the morning. The dates were chosen as July and August are the busiest so I wanted to avoid them but I want to take a course that begins the second week of September. This seemed the best compromise.
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