Thursday, July 31, 2008
sign of the times
According to Zerofootprint (who has a partnership with Air Canada), my round-trip flight to Lima will generate 1.3 tons of carbon emissions. I am asked to cough up $20.80 to cover my personal share of the flights. I dutifully do so.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
faith restored
I heard from Monica late last night. Peru has been celebrating their Independence Day over a long weekend! I had checked national holidays for my visit period but hadn't really considered the time before as impacting in any way.
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
donde estas?
Sadly I am starting to wonder if I've been had. I sent the $50 to Monica last Friday for the boat trip ticket and asked her to let me know when she'd received it. Silence. She usually took 2 days to return emails - we are now going on 4 days. I am not sure how I could have avoided this - I had to send money to someone to buy the ticket and she was recommended on several travel sites as well as on the South American Explorers Club site. $50 to me is an annoying but not huge amount to lose - to a Peruvian working in the tourist industry, it is a lot of money. I'll wait and see.
Sunday, July 27, 2008
duct tape
I was walking with someone yesterday and told him about my trip. Duct tape, he said. Excuse me? He was referring to the adventure racer's practice of covering blisters with duct tape (if you're interested in this kind of information, I heartily recommend tracking down the Eco-Challenge series). I hadn't really framed the Inca Trail as an adventure race but after a sudden vision of myself battling up Dead Woman's Pass, exhausted and sore, I could see the parallels.
So added to the latest version of the packing list (which is version 5.6, if I remember correctly) will be one smallish roll of duct tape... just in case.
So added to the latest version of the packing list (which is version 5.6, if I remember correctly) will be one smallish roll of duct tape... just in case.
Saturday, July 26, 2008
up, up, up, down, up, down
The Inca Trail is a 4 day hike of 45kms. (For a great chart of the climbs and drops, see here.) Most travel companies bus people to "kilometre 82" (the start of the trail) and it's a 12-14km or so hike to the first campsite, which as far as I can tell, takes about 5-6 hours. That's the easy part.
Day 2 is the commonly-known "killer" day - During this part of the trail hikers are exposed to the Andean elements: first scorching sun and then, closer to the pass, freezing winds. 12kms, 9-11 hours hiking from 3000 meters (9,842 feet) to 4200 meters (13,779 feet), the Trail's highest point at Dead Woman's Pass. There is a celebratory shot of something at the top if you can catch your breath enough to gasp it down.
Day 3 sounds hard in a different way: steps, 2000 of them, going down. I think this is where my poles will come in handy. Beer, advil and a tepid shower at the third campsite. (16km, aprox. 6 hours)
Day 4: I'll be high on adrenalin so nothing will matter. We rise at 4:00am and trapse 5km (under 2 hours) in the dark to the Sun Gate to watch the sunrise over Machu Picchu.
Today I'm going on my second hike with the Bruce Trail Club (18km). These "practice" hikes are good for wearing in the new boots, building some leg muscle and learning where the trouble spots are. The first time I went, my feet were on fire for the last 10km and I couldn't stand that night. I now know all about blister surgery - which is surprisingly easy and painless - moleskin, socks, etc. I believe you can read all you want to prepare but that you also have to get out there and feel it.
Day 2 is the commonly-known "killer" day - During this part of the trail hikers are exposed to the Andean elements: first scorching sun and then, closer to the pass, freezing winds. 12kms, 9-11 hours hiking from 3000 meters (9,842 feet) to 4200 meters (13,779 feet), the Trail's highest point at Dead Woman's Pass. There is a celebratory shot of something at the top if you can catch your breath enough to gasp it down.
Day 3 sounds hard in a different way: steps, 2000 of them, going down. I think this is where my poles will come in handy. Beer, advil and a tepid shower at the third campsite. (16km, aprox. 6 hours)
Day 4: I'll be high on adrenalin so nothing will matter. We rise at 4:00am and trapse 5km (under 2 hours) in the dark to the Sun Gate to watch the sunrise over Machu Picchu.
Today I'm going on my second hike with the Bruce Trail Club (18km). These "practice" hikes are good for wearing in the new boots, building some leg muscle and learning where the trouble spots are. The first time I went, my feet were on fire for the last 10km and I couldn't stand that night. I now know all about blister surgery - which is surprisingly easy and painless - moleskin, socks, etc. I believe you can read all you want to prepare but that you also have to get out there and feel it.
Friday, July 25, 2008
surprise expenses
It never occurred to me that I would have to pay for my Hep A/B shot. My Tetanus one had been free, after all. I was surprised when the doctor's ofice asked for my drug store number and even more so when the pharmacist handed me the serum and said "keep it in the fridge until your doctor's appointment." $70 including that annoying pharmacy fee and that's just for round one! The good news is it will last the rest of my travelling days. I'll be able to guzzle dirty water and nibble on raw fish whenever I like!
Monica asked me to send her the boat tour money via Western Union. I zipped over to their website and was peeved to find it would cost me $20 to send $52. Surely there must be a cheaper way. After visiting a Money Mart (we're only a small branch, honey, we don't do that here), a Walmart (sorry miss, machine's broken) and another Money Mart, I ended up paying $10 instead of $20. Is online convenience really worth double the price?
Monica asked me to send her the boat tour money via Western Union. I zipped over to their website and was peeved to find it would cost me $20 to send $52. Surely there must be a cheaper way. After visiting a Money Mart (we're only a small branch, honey, we don't do that here), a Walmart (sorry miss, machine's broken) and another Money Mart, I ended up paying $10 instead of $20. Is online convenience really worth double the price?
Thursday, July 24, 2008
sea lions, yippee
Monica has been very helpful and is going to book me on an afternoon boat tour to visit the sea lions. At first she told me the tour was in the evening - I guessed this was a mistranslation so asked for the actual departure time, which is 14:30. I was having trouble envisioning swimming with beasts of the sea at night!
After the cruise, she will meet me and show me around Lima for a few hours. Thankfully, no museums as they will all be closed by then.
All in all, I think about $90-100 for the day.
After the cruise, she will meet me and show me around Lima for a few hours. Thankfully, no museums as they will all be closed by then.
All in all, I think about $90-100 for the day.
money issues
Here's a few tips I've gleaned from other travellers' websites:
When you arrive in Perú, it is best to do so with U.S. dollars. While most western currency can be exchanged for Peruvian Soles rather easily, any shop, restaurant, or business will take U.S. dollars as payment. This cannot be said readily of all other western currency. Be prepared however to receive your change in Soles. It is a good idea not to use bills in excess of $10-$20 U.S., as you might find it difficult for the merchant to change anything larger. There are money changing booths almost everywhere in every major Peruvian city in the Plaza de Armas and their hours and rates are usually better than the local banks. (Source: Orquidea Tours)
It's wise to exchange American dollars in the smallest notes you can get and horde as many small notes and coins as possible throughout your holiday travel in Peru. Change is often scarce and it's cheaper to provide small notes to the many people who expect a tip in Peru. Make sure the American dollars you carry with you don't have rips or other damage, and hide/guard your money closely. (Source: Peru Holiday Advice)
When you travel you need to look at every bill and coin that you exchange. Whether it be on the street, in banks, change from your meal at a restaurant, or buying souvenirs, you must examine the money. Not only is there counterfeit in circulation, but many countries will not accept bills that are torn or excessively wrinkled.
To protect yourself from bad exchanges, you need to know what a good bill looks like. These days bills all over the world have a thin strip hidden inside them, often with the bill's denomination. Also a watermark is included of the person's face that is on the bill. The strip and watermark can be seen by holding the bill up to the light. For example, in Peru a good bill of one hundred soles has a strip that says "Peru 100" and a watermark of the face of Jorge Grohmann, which also appears on the face of the bill. The surface of the bill is a little rough. Other bills have a different watermark, such as "Peru 50" or "Peru 20", depending on the bill's value.
Once you know how to spot bad money, you can make exchanges. Look at every bill and coin handed to you, and if you don't like what you see, ask the person to exchange it. This is a common practice. (Source: Protect your money: Tips for travelling in Peru)
When you arrive in Perú, it is best to do so with U.S. dollars. While most western currency can be exchanged for Peruvian Soles rather easily, any shop, restaurant, or business will take U.S. dollars as payment. This cannot be said readily of all other western currency. Be prepared however to receive your change in Soles. It is a good idea not to use bills in excess of $10-$20 U.S., as you might find it difficult for the merchant to change anything larger. There are money changing booths almost everywhere in every major Peruvian city in the Plaza de Armas and their hours and rates are usually better than the local banks. (Source: Orquidea Tours)
It's wise to exchange American dollars in the smallest notes you can get and horde as many small notes and coins as possible throughout your holiday travel in Peru. Change is often scarce and it's cheaper to provide small notes to the many people who expect a tip in Peru. Make sure the American dollars you carry with you don't have rips or other damage, and hide/guard your money closely. (Source: Peru Holiday Advice)
When you travel you need to look at every bill and coin that you exchange. Whether it be on the street, in banks, change from your meal at a restaurant, or buying souvenirs, you must examine the money. Not only is there counterfeit in circulation, but many countries will not accept bills that are torn or excessively wrinkled.
To protect yourself from bad exchanges, you need to know what a good bill looks like. These days bills all over the world have a thin strip hidden inside them, often with the bill's denomination. Also a watermark is included of the person's face that is on the bill. The strip and watermark can be seen by holding the bill up to the light. For example, in Peru a good bill of one hundred soles has a strip that says "Peru 100" and a watermark of the face of Jorge Grohmann, which also appears on the face of the bill. The surface of the bill is a little rough. Other bills have a different watermark, such as "Peru 50" or "Peru 20", depending on the bill's value.
Once you know how to spot bad money, you can make exchanges. Look at every bill and coin handed to you, and if you don't like what you see, ask the person to exchange it. This is a common practice. (Source: Protect your money: Tips for travelling in Peru)
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
vaccinations
I didn't rush out to get the Hepatitis A & B shot (recommended for travel within Peru - if going to the Amazon, need yellow fever as well) but apparently I should have. I had presumed it was one shot but it turns out to be 2 or 3 shots over 6 months. Oops. Maybe they should mention that in the tv ad.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Lima - in between flights
The biggest problem I am facing in my planning is trying to arrange something to do while in between return flights in Lima. I expect tours will be available with every wheezing breath in Cusco so am going a bit free in terms of pre-organzing there but Lima is tricky. Most of the tours I find start at 9:00 or 10:00am from your hotel (which of course, I don't have) - I won't land until 10:40am. Then I am stuck until my 1:30AM flight home.
The tour I really want to do is a boat "cruise" to Palomino Island which leaves from Callao, the port, which is actually not too far from the airport. I am unclear as to whether one can just go there by taxi and there will be many boats going in the afternoon, actually make that any boats. If I could just get that information, I would be satisfied. However the few tours that have websites are out of date and 3/7 have not responded at all to my emails. I am really wishing I had kept my Spanish up so I could be certain of the answers I'm getting.
I also note that I am running into some problems as a solo traveller - of course they would be willing to do a tour or hike or horseback riding for two, three, six people but not for just me, or at a very high cost. I understand that but it's a little frustrating. Hopefully I'll meet some people in Cusco to tag along with.
I did hear back from Monica, a recommended independent Lima guide. I told her please, no museums - hopefully she will understand that I would like to see what she loves about her hometown. I asked her to think where she would take a friend from another city. I think I will try to go with her regardless even if she insists on shepherding me around the major tourist places - she is $12/hour and will pick me up at the airport, drop me off again. She answered my email quickly and says she can help me with the boat tour.
The tour I really want to do is a boat "cruise" to Palomino Island which leaves from Callao, the port, which is actually not too far from the airport. I am unclear as to whether one can just go there by taxi and there will be many boats going in the afternoon, actually make that any boats. If I could just get that information, I would be satisfied. However the few tours that have websites are out of date and 3/7 have not responded at all to my emails. I am really wishing I had kept my Spanish up so I could be certain of the answers I'm getting.
I also note that I am running into some problems as a solo traveller - of course they would be willing to do a tour or hike or horseback riding for two, three, six people but not for just me, or at a very high cost. I understand that but it's a little frustrating. Hopefully I'll meet some people in Cusco to tag along with.
I did hear back from Monica, a recommended independent Lima guide. I told her please, no museums - hopefully she will understand that I would like to see what she loves about her hometown. I asked her to think where she would take a friend from another city. I think I will try to go with her regardless even if she insists on shepherding me around the major tourist places - she is $12/hour and will pick me up at the airport, drop me off again. She answered my email quickly and says she can help me with the boat tour.
Sunday, July 20, 2008
the overall itinerary
Wednesday, August 27: fly to Lima, arrive midnight, try to check in luggage early for Cusco flight or use the Left luggage service at the airport, camp out by the food court with all the other backpackers overnight. (travel day)
Thursday, August 28: fly to Cusco (5:40am), try to check-in to hotel early; sleep, drink cocoa tea (to acclimatize); eat; go to Tourist office and get Tourist ticket, maps, etc.; go to South American Explorers' clubhouse; maybe take trolley tour around city; generally get oriented (easy day)
Friday, August 29: tour
Saturday, August 30: tour
Places I'd like to see: Maras & Moray (organized tour), Sacsayhuaman (on horseback?)
Things I'd like to do: watch a live soccer game; get a massage or two or three; eat at the Hare Krishna restaurant; wander around the San Blas district; ride a local bus
Sunday, August 31: Pisac on own - public bus, taxi; trek packing/orientation (1 hour bus ride for $1)
Monday, September 1 - Thursday, September 4: Inca Trail; return to Cusco early evening
Friday, September 5: fly to Lima (9:40am); leave luggage at airport; either go to Port for boat tour of Las Islas Palomino or hire private tour guide; flight home 1:30am (travel, tour day)
This is just a rough outline so I have some structure to fall back on but also to make sure I see what I consider the essentials.
A note: I don't consider eating cuy or guinea pig an essential experience, especially after reading it arrives on the plate, head attached and feet in the air. Ugh. I have drilled that Spanish word into my head so I don't order it accidentally.
Thursday, August 28: fly to Cusco (5:40am), try to check-in to hotel early; sleep, drink cocoa tea (to acclimatize); eat; go to Tourist office and get Tourist ticket, maps, etc.; go to South American Explorers' clubhouse; maybe take trolley tour around city; generally get oriented (easy day)
Friday, August 29: tour
Saturday, August 30: tour
Places I'd like to see: Maras & Moray (organized tour), Sacsayhuaman (on horseback?)
Things I'd like to do: watch a live soccer game; get a massage or two or three; eat at the Hare Krishna restaurant; wander around the San Blas district; ride a local bus
Sunday, August 31: Pisac on own - public bus, taxi; trek packing/orientation (1 hour bus ride for $1)
Monday, September 1 - Thursday, September 4: Inca Trail; return to Cusco early evening
Friday, September 5: fly to Lima (9:40am); leave luggage at airport; either go to Port for boat tour of Las Islas Palomino or hire private tour guide; flight home 1:30am (travel, tour day)
This is just a rough outline so I have some structure to fall back on but also to make sure I see what I consider the essentials.
A note: I don't consider eating cuy or guinea pig an essential experience, especially after reading it arrives on the plate, head attached and feet in the air. Ugh. I have drilled that Spanish word into my head so I don't order it accidentally.
footwear for the Inca Trail
Apparently some people do the entire 4 day trek in sneakers but I wasn't going to be one of them. I won't go into the dreary details of shlepping about town trying to find a pair of decent walking boots. I'll just offer the following suggestions:
- try to shop for them at the end of the day when your feet are tired and swollen
- wear the socks you will have on when wearing the boots
- buy light and buy waterporoof
- look for ankle support
- don't buy them if they're uncomfortable (probably the most important tip - I have a hard time with new shoes in general so didn't believe this was possible - it is - keep looking)
Most stores will allow you to exhange or return the boots if you keep the receipt and the box, and if you've only worn them inside your home. Ask what the return policy is before handing over your cash. (BTW, I have a hardly-used pair of North Face boots, women's size 8, if anyone's interested. Going cheap! lol)
Another thing: Buy them early and wear them in! I am wearing mine walking about the city but also on hikes with the Toronto Bruce Trail Club (which organizes bus trips for weekend hikes). After trying three different brands, I settled for Keens (Targhee II Mid) from MEC. They are surprisingly listed as Light trail shoes but I am optomistic they will be adequate.
Some other travel bloggers have recommended bringing a pair of sandals on the trek to wear in camp (with socks, as it is apparently quite cold up there in the Andes!) but also for the shower at the end of day 3. It can get a little knarly.
- try to shop for them at the end of the day when your feet are tired and swollen
- wear the socks you will have on when wearing the boots
- buy light and buy waterporoof
- look for ankle support
- don't buy them if they're uncomfortable (probably the most important tip - I have a hard time with new shoes in general so didn't believe this was possible - it is - keep looking)
Most stores will allow you to exhange or return the boots if you keep the receipt and the box, and if you've only worn them inside your home. Ask what the return policy is before handing over your cash. (BTW, I have a hardly-used pair of North Face boots, women's size 8, if anyone's interested. Going cheap! lol)
Another thing: Buy them early and wear them in! I am wearing mine walking about the city but also on hikes with the Toronto Bruce Trail Club (which organizes bus trips for weekend hikes). After trying three different brands, I settled for Keens (Targhee II Mid) from MEC. They are surprisingly listed as Light trail shoes but I am optomistic they will be adequate.
Some other travel bloggers have recommended bringing a pair of sandals on the trek to wear in camp (with socks, as it is apparently quite cold up there in the Andes!) but also for the shower at the end of day 3. It can get a little knarly.
Inca Trail - head's up
I almost waited too long to book my place on the trek. The Peruvian government has limited the number of total trekkers that can start the Trail on any given day to 200. I eeked onto that list for September 1, booking way back on April 18.
Another mistake on my part: I had read this, of course, in my prior research on the Inca Trail but was watching the GAP Adventures website for the tour to "guarantee" before I booked. My thought was what if I book my flight and they can't get the minimum number? Then, suddenly, overnight it seemed, my trip's status went from available to waiting list. I rushed down to the GAP Adventures office in a frenzy.
I was on a "let's wait and see" list over the weekend so as a back-up plan, emailed Peru Treks, a highly-reputable local trekking company and asked if they had space. A swift response supplied me with all the information but stressed urgency. It was with some regret that I emailed them back Monday afternoon to say that GAP had come through for me. If I had been more experienced at solo travel, I would have liked to have booked with them.
Another mistake on my part: I had read this, of course, in my prior research on the Inca Trail but was watching the GAP Adventures website for the tour to "guarantee" before I booked. My thought was what if I book my flight and they can't get the minimum number? Then, suddenly, overnight it seemed, my trip's status went from available to waiting list. I rushed down to the GAP Adventures office in a frenzy.
I was on a "let's wait and see" list over the weekend so as a back-up plan, emailed Peru Treks, a highly-reputable local trekking company and asked if they had space. A swift response supplied me with all the information but stressed urgency. It was with some regret that I emailed them back Monday afternoon to say that GAP had come through for me. If I had been more experienced at solo travel, I would have liked to have booked with them.
flights
I looked at flights before I picked my trip dates. As soon as I found Air Canada offers the only direct flight to Lima (one cannot fly direct to Cusco), I stopped researching other airlines through Travelocity.ca and other such flight comparision flights and focussed on dates. Flying is torturous for me. Once I knew what dates were available, then I booked my trip with GAP Adventures.
GAP also booked my Lima to Cusco return airline ticket, though looking back, I could have taken care of that myself as LAN Peru has a good website. I think I did it that way so they would be sure to meet me at Cusco airport as I am flying in 2 days before the rest of the group.
One experiment I am trying is seat selection. When you purchase your ticket on the Air Canada website, you can choose your seat ahead of time by way of a handy diagram indicating whaich seats are already taken. The plane was about 1/3 full. On the way down, I chose a window seat, hoping that no one would claim the aisle seat. On the way back (which is a night flight, leaving Lima at 1:30am), I chose an aisle in a row of three, hoping people would be mainly travelling in pairs. Interestingly enough, today I logged on and someone had chosen the aisle seat in my pair, but my three was still intact. So I changed my seat to another three. It's night anyway - I really just wanted a window to lean my head against. It will be interesting to see what happens.
Air Canada also has the ability to fill in your traveller's information (compulsory afater 9/11) and to obtain your boarding pass in advance so it is well-worth exploring. The site is secure and they send you an e-ticket shortly after you pay with your credit card.
A mistake I almost made: The return flight was listed as being on Saturday at 1:30am. For some reason, I misread that and thought I would have all day Saturday in Lima. Luckily I reread it before booking with GAP or I would have to change a lot of plans!
GAP also booked my Lima to Cusco return airline ticket, though looking back, I could have taken care of that myself as LAN Peru has a good website. I think I did it that way so they would be sure to meet me at Cusco airport as I am flying in 2 days before the rest of the group.
One experiment I am trying is seat selection. When you purchase your ticket on the Air Canada website, you can choose your seat ahead of time by way of a handy diagram indicating whaich seats are already taken. The plane was about 1/3 full. On the way down, I chose a window seat, hoping that no one would claim the aisle seat. On the way back (which is a night flight, leaving Lima at 1:30am), I chose an aisle in a row of three, hoping people would be mainly travelling in pairs. Interestingly enough, today I logged on and someone had chosen the aisle seat in my pair, but my three was still intact. So I changed my seat to another three. It's night anyway - I really just wanted a window to lean my head against. It will be interesting to see what happens.
Air Canada also has the ability to fill in your traveller's information (compulsory afater 9/11) and to obtain your boarding pass in advance so it is well-worth exploring. The site is secure and they send you an e-ticket shortly after you pay with your credit card.
A mistake I almost made: The return flight was listed as being on Saturday at 1:30am. For some reason, I misread that and thought I would have all day Saturday in Lima. Luckily I reread it before booking with GAP or I would have to change a lot of plans!
intro
I am heading to trek the Inca Trail on September 1, my first major trip in 7 years and my first ever solo travel experience as an adult. This blog will detail my research - good sources and the challenges of finding online information on activities off the beaten tourist circuit - the training (or lack thereof!), the shopping and finally, the actual trip itself.
Apparently Internet cafes are easier to find than toilet paper in Cusco so I hope to update every day from Cusco and then again when I finish the trek.
I tend to lean heavy on the digging and burrowing side so it may be a bit TMI - feel free to weed out what may be helpful by using the labels tool provided by Blogger. When you find a post on a topic of interest, click on the appropriate label at the bottom (below comments). That will pull up all the scattered posts with the same label.
As I haven't travelled on my own for a very long time, my initial plan had been to book a tour with GAP Adventures that included the Inca Trail. GAP Adventures is a Canadian company which was named the #1 "Do It All Outfitter on Earth" by National Geographic Adventure magazine's survey of Best Adventure Travel Companies in the World! (2007). However, the more I read about altitude sickness, the more I leaned toward spending a few extra days in Cusco to acclimatize. I also had little interest in visiting Lake Titicaca or the Amazon, which most of the tours included. So in the end, I booked the Independent Inca Discovery tour and added 2 extra nights to the front of it. I'll have 4 full days on my own in Cusco and then 4 on the Inca Trail with a group of up to 16 trekkers.
So I will be departing Toronto in the evening of Wednesday, August 27 and returning Saturday, September 6 in the morning. The dates were chosen as July and August are the busiest so I wanted to avoid them but I want to take a course that begins the second week of September. This seemed the best compromise.
Apparently Internet cafes are easier to find than toilet paper in Cusco so I hope to update every day from Cusco and then again when I finish the trek.
I tend to lean heavy on the digging and burrowing side so it may be a bit TMI - feel free to weed out what may be helpful by using the labels tool provided by Blogger. When you find a post on a topic of interest, click on the appropriate label at the bottom (below comments). That will pull up all the scattered posts with the same label.
As I haven't travelled on my own for a very long time, my initial plan had been to book a tour with GAP Adventures that included the Inca Trail. GAP Adventures is a Canadian company which was named the #1 "Do It All Outfitter on Earth" by National Geographic Adventure magazine's survey of Best Adventure Travel Companies in the World! (2007). However, the more I read about altitude sickness, the more I leaned toward spending a few extra days in Cusco to acclimatize. I also had little interest in visiting Lake Titicaca or the Amazon, which most of the tours included. So in the end, I booked the Independent Inca Discovery tour and added 2 extra nights to the front of it. I'll have 4 full days on my own in Cusco and then 4 on the Inca Trail with a group of up to 16 trekkers.
So I will be departing Toronto in the evening of Wednesday, August 27 and returning Saturday, September 6 in the morning. The dates were chosen as July and August are the busiest so I wanted to avoid them but I want to take a course that begins the second week of September. This seemed the best compromise.
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