1) rather than taking hiking poles, buy one or two sticks in Ollantaytambo. I lost the tips somewhere on day 1 so they were not much help on the rocks.
2) learn more Spanish
3) train more for the Trail by using the Stairmaster as well as some aerobic exercises
4) catch a later flight out of Cusco so can have a lovely morning there and less time in Lima airport
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Things I was glad I took
1) good, worn-in hiking boots - day-hikers would be sufficient - but especially needed where we went downhill to support ankles
2) woolly long underwear, fleece and wool hat - it starts to cool around 4pm
3) pants that converted to shorts - by 10am I was unzippping
4) mosquito repellant - you can't see or feel them but I omitted to spray my legs the first day and was covered in red bumps by camp
5) toilet paper always
6) money exchange sheet from Oanda.com - helped me on the fly to work out my maximum price
7) some idea of an itinerary for the 4 days in Cusco of places I wanted to see - gave me a starting point as tour operators are on every corner
8) large ziploc bags for sorting clothes and supplies to find easily later - ie I put my night gear in one: woolly underwear and head lamp in one, and my toiletries and medications in another.
9) head lamp - it gets dark at 6pm and it is useful to have both hands free
10) bucket hat and sunscreen - everyone looks dorky in their hats but the sun is much stronger in the Andes than in Canada
2) woolly long underwear, fleece and wool hat - it starts to cool around 4pm
3) pants that converted to shorts - by 10am I was unzippping
4) mosquito repellant - you can't see or feel them but I omitted to spray my legs the first day and was covered in red bumps by camp
5) toilet paper always
6) money exchange sheet from Oanda.com - helped me on the fly to work out my maximum price
7) some idea of an itinerary for the 4 days in Cusco of places I wanted to see - gave me a starting point as tour operators are on every corner
8) large ziploc bags for sorting clothes and supplies to find easily later - ie I put my night gear in one: woolly underwear and head lamp in one, and my toiletries and medications in another.
9) head lamp - it gets dark at 6pm and it is useful to have both hands free
10) bucket hat and sunscreen - everyone looks dorky in their hats but the sun is much stronger in the Andes than in Canada
Sunday, September 7, 2008
summation
In all, the trip was much more fun and interesting than I imagined. Much to my surprise, I discovered I like travelling on my own. Every day was a challenge to do what I wanted to do. For example, did I really want to go to Pisac on the local bus enough to actually do it or should I just wander around Cusco in relative familiarity? For once the voice in my head said "just go" and I did and enjoyed myself more as a result. I don't want anyone to think I wasn't watchful of my surroundings or acted insensibly. I lied several times about a boyfriend back at the hotel when people asked me if I was travelling alone. I wore a money belt. I kept valuables in the hotel safe. I stayed close to the hotel after dark.
So although hiking the Inca Trail and seeing Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate had been the original reason for going to Peru, the trip became something much more expansive than that.
So although hiking the Inca Trail and seeing Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate had been the original reason for going to Peru, the trip became something much more expansive than that.
Lima
Despite Monica's best efforts, I hated Lima. She met me at the airport with a sign "Monica Tours" and standing off the side a bit so I spotted her easily. I asked immediately about the boat tour as I had packed my swimsuit in my carry on but forgotten to keep my jacket. It was not going to happen. And I think as a result, Monica thought I would want to hire her for a full day instead of just the pre-arranged 2-3 hours as my plane did not leave until 1:30am.
After stashing my big suitcase with "Left Luggage" at the airport (14 soles for all day), we went out to climb into her old white van. Inside she had fridge magnets from clients' countries that they had mailed to her. Because I had no interest in museums, Monica seemed a little unsure of what to do with me and I had not researched Lima well enough to offer suggestions. Later I found there was a zoo - I would have been perfectly content spending my three hours in there.
Lima was loud with honking and very polluted. And the driving was scary. I quickly got a splitting headache. We drove through about 5 districts, past casinos, shopping centres, the Canadian Embassy, Lovers' Park and some marigolds planted in a reproduction of the Nazca Lines. Eventually we came to some pre-Incan ruins and she asked me if I wanted to go for a look. Out of desperation, I said yes. There was an English-speaking group just starting up so I joined them. Trouble was, the guide spoke so softly I had no idea where I was or what it was for. I also have to admit I didn't really care. The most interesting thing at the ruins were two grey dogs running loose, who had tufts of orange hairs sticking out. I saw my first guinea pigs there too in their reproduction farm.
After about 3 1/2 hours, I told Monica I wanted to go back to the airport. She was shocked but off we went in troubled silence. We settled up, hugged and I felt relieved to be on my own again.
I think Monica would be a terrific help if you had a list of museums or places you specifically wanted to see - she had no problem waiting for me while I was in the ruins and knew her way around the city very well. I also fully recognize 1) I was already exhausted at that point and 2) I am not your typical tourist who is content with standard tourist places.
I am good at killing time in airports and I'd like to thank Starbuck's for making coffee that "is built to last". I had 10 hours to waste and knew if I read my book I'd be asleep in about 10 seconds. So I spent 2 hours in the internet kiosk and 8 hours people-watching.
After stashing my big suitcase with "Left Luggage" at the airport (14 soles for all day), we went out to climb into her old white van. Inside she had fridge magnets from clients' countries that they had mailed to her. Because I had no interest in museums, Monica seemed a little unsure of what to do with me and I had not researched Lima well enough to offer suggestions. Later I found there was a zoo - I would have been perfectly content spending my three hours in there.
Lima was loud with honking and very polluted. And the driving was scary. I quickly got a splitting headache. We drove through about 5 districts, past casinos, shopping centres, the Canadian Embassy, Lovers' Park and some marigolds planted in a reproduction of the Nazca Lines. Eventually we came to some pre-Incan ruins and she asked me if I wanted to go for a look. Out of desperation, I said yes. There was an English-speaking group just starting up so I joined them. Trouble was, the guide spoke so softly I had no idea where I was or what it was for. I also have to admit I didn't really care. The most interesting thing at the ruins were two grey dogs running loose, who had tufts of orange hairs sticking out. I saw my first guinea pigs there too in their reproduction farm.
After about 3 1/2 hours, I told Monica I wanted to go back to the airport. She was shocked but off we went in troubled silence. We settled up, hugged and I felt relieved to be on my own again.
I think Monica would be a terrific help if you had a list of museums or places you specifically wanted to see - she had no problem waiting for me while I was in the ruins and knew her way around the city very well. I also fully recognize 1) I was already exhausted at that point and 2) I am not your typical tourist who is content with standard tourist places.
I am good at killing time in airports and I'd like to thank Starbuck's for making coffee that "is built to last". I had 10 hours to waste and knew if I read my book I'd be asleep in about 10 seconds. So I spent 2 hours in the internet kiosk and 8 hours people-watching.
journey back to Cusco
I met Effrey at 1:45 and we went to the train station, which is rather hidden behind the local tourist market. The ticket master checked my ticket against my passport very carefully. The train turned out to be comfortable and only about 2/3 full. Two men wheeled a trolley with coffee and pop up the aisle once. Many people fell asleep with the rocking. The route back to Cusco follows the Urubamba river - the best views are on the right side of the train, which might be hard to find, as most people sitting backwards. The train stopped several times to let the oncoming train go by and blew its whistle to warn people off the tracks - villagers use the tracks as a path. It took only about one hour and 15 minutes to reach our start point. I looked out at the bridge and thought how far we'd come.
I ended up walking down to where Effrey sat to thank him for his extra help. He was storing my trekking poles and reached for them to give to me. I asked if he could use them and was relieved he was not insulted. I had been puzzling for 2 days over how to phrase the question. He glowed and it made my day.
We got off the train in Ollantaytambo and were met by a GAP van which drove us the rest of the way back to Cusco. Apparently this is the faster option. At the station there were many tourists waiting to buy tickets to go to Agua Calientes. I saw evidence of the strike the tourist on the bus had told me about - the driver had to dodge big rocks scattered across the road in several spots.
By 5:30 I was back at the hotel. Hot shower finally - unfortunately white towels became grey. I ate at my usual steak/chicken sandwich place.
Effrey told me he does 50 trips a year. As the trail is closed for the month of February, I thought perhaps I had misunderstood his answer. But then he said that his next time out was Saturday morning. We got back to Cusco Thursday night.
I ended up walking down to where Effrey sat to thank him for his extra help. He was storing my trekking poles and reached for them to give to me. I asked if he could use them and was relieved he was not insulted. I had been puzzling for 2 days over how to phrase the question. He glowed and it made my day.
We got off the train in Ollantaytambo and were met by a GAP van which drove us the rest of the way back to Cusco. Apparently this is the faster option. At the station there were many tourists waiting to buy tickets to go to Agua Calientes. I saw evidence of the strike the tourist on the bus had told me about - the driver had to dodge big rocks scattered across the road in several spots.
By 5:30 I was back at the hotel. Hot shower finally - unfortunately white towels became grey. I ate at my usual steak/chicken sandwich place.
Effrey told me he does 50 trips a year. As the trail is closed for the month of February, I thought perhaps I had misunderstood his answer. But then he said that his next time out was Saturday morning. We got back to Cusco Thursday night.
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