further impressions of Cusco

I have been surprised by a few things here and intrigued by others. The streets are devoid of litter although there are few garbage cans, all which seem to located in the squares. There is also hardly any sign of dog poop which is surprising as there are countless scruffy dogs wandering the streets. (Missing the cats, I made friends with one yesterday). This morning I was up early and saw men walking the streets sweeping the sidewalks and picking up any rare litter. Shop owners were washing their portion of the public sidewalk, much like storeowners shovelling snow back home. It seems only tourists smoke so there are few butts lying around like in Toronto.

Most locals wear fleece, sweaters and sometimes down jackets all the time. That is surprising to me as the temperature ranges from about 3 at night to 23 in the day. I peel off my sweater at about 10am and throw it back on around 4. The temperature drops quickly after that and it is generally dark by 5:30/6pm.

Driving is stereotypically chaotic but I imagine there must be a system. I have not seen an accident or close call. Inside the touristy part of Cusco where I am there are few lane markers except around the main square and traffic lights are almost non-existent. The roads are paved with flat stone blocks - larger than cobblestones but as bumpy and quite narrow. Every pedestrian is playing dodge the car. Cars pass each other on two lane, two way streets and honk when someone stops to pick up a passenger. At corners, I think they decide who has right of way by look. Yesterday our driver played chicken with a few cars that had to back up along to the extra space created for pulling over as we were in the more precarious position (ie on the steeper part of a cliff road). Drivers honk to warn of their oncoming when they believe the person or dog or sheep may step into their path. The guide told us gas was very expensive - about $2US a litre. Most of the cars here are small station wagons or hatchbacks with room to cram a few friends in the back. I have seen cars go by so full that faces are squashed against the window sideways!

I think most of the people who work in Cusco live on the outskirts and walk or take the bus in. It is quite steep heading out of Cusco, even in certain areas of downtown. I asked the guide yesterday if it was possible to buy a house and he said no, there were none available. There was no more room. People bus in and board with families or rent shared accomodation. Ellie and Thomas told me there had been a demonstration outside the Cathedral - students protesting the raise in bus fare.

Last night when I was coming here, it seemed the entire Cusco police force had turned up for some kind of drill outside the Cathedral. They all looked very smart, standing 6 deep in their uniforms. Some had long guns with bayonets attached, which I thought was unusual and hoped they were for ceremonial purposes only! A band was playing in the Square and then there was a loud bang - fireworks.