It was quite the business packing tonight. Ah, the joys of organizing by ziploc. I piled everything on the floor and it didnt look possible to get everything in under 6kg. However my first attempt came in at 5kg so I borrowed the scale, went back to my room and threw more stuff in to peak at 5.8kg. It felt awfully heavy to me. TG at the end, the porters take the sleeping bags and thermarest back with them so I don´t have a huge pile on the train coming back. My day pack, the one I have to carry, is already heavy enough but a lot of the things like food and hand warmers will be gone by the end.
We leave tomorrow at 6am. This will doubtlessly be the one morning I sleep past 5 and then through the alarm, in true BR fashion. I am excited to finally meet the other people in our group.
I went to get a pasta at Chez Maggys and befriended the waiter with my love of soccer. We moaned and ooooed together watching Peru play Argentina on the tv. Soccer: the universal language! I wish I had caught a live game. The Cusco team played yesterday but in another town :( My pasta turned out not to be pasta with chicken and avocado but rather avocado with chopped potato inside, and it was expensive for what it was. I may have to run out for another steak sandwich!
The laundry service opened late today as it was Sunday. My clothes came back ironed and folded very neatly - I think they were in shock!
Well I guess that´s it for a few days. Hopefully I can find an internet cafe in Aqua Calienetes, which is the small expensive tourist town below Machu Picchu and from where we catch the train back to Cusco on Thursday late afternoon. If not, it may be Friday before I can check in again.
Thanks for reading. It makes me feel just a little closer to home.
Sunday, August 31, 2008
last day in Cusco
This morning I was up at 5 as usual and no hot water as usual. So I went for breakfast. When I came back, several young men were pounding on another door trying to rouse their friend. It took about 5 minutes of yelling and kicking to open the door. What a din! I had to laugh though - Just get his shoes on and bullocks (several times) were two things I could make out. Then they carried him off to the front lobby - he was still drunk and had a silly grin on his face. I bet he got a pretty good "bullocking" later.
Hot water returned at 7am - every time I think I have figured out the pattern, it goes woolly on me.
I got back from Pisac at about 12:30pm and thought I would try a new restaurant, Moni Cafe, the vegetarian one that had been highly recommended and which claimed to have the cleanest toilets in Cusco. It was locked up tighter than a safe. I keep forgetting it is Sunday. So then I tried another one in the same area - closed until September 15. Bah!
On my way back downhill, a car turned the corner very fast and almost hit a small child who was crossing without looking. The driver went up onto the sidewalk (sidewalks are about 10 inches higher than the road), scraped his side against the wall for a full 5 seconds and then continued onward without stopping. The child didn´t pause either. I did stop as I was shaking - it happened about 10 feet away from me. An impressive example of German engineering :) - the car was a VW bug.
I bought a steak sandwich (about $1.50) from the same place I been to every day and as it is my last day, bought an Inka Cola to sample along with it. Trouble was when I returned to my room, I realized I didn´t have any way to open the bottle. Typical! I shall wander down the street and ask a storeowner to open it for me. Inka Cola is a yellow pop that is only available in Peru and it is very popular. Tonight is my last night before the trek so I´m having pasta at Chez Maggie´s. I tried to get some yesterday but the cook wasn´t in until 6pm and I was starving.
I have found in Cusco I need to drink water almost continually. It is hot, yes, but very dry and my throat is often parched. The sun is much stronger and I keep forgetting to put on lotion. Today I am quite tired too and preoccupied with packing. While we are away on the Trail, the hotel stores our suitcases for the 4 days we are gone, and then we get a new room for the last night. I also have to figure out what can fit in the 6kg bag and what I have to carry. They lend out a small scale at the front desk so I can play around a bit.
Hard to believe it is my last day in Cusco. We return from Machu Picchu quite late and then the next day I am early off to fly to Lima. I must say I am ready to go, though I will miss my Trotimundo´s coffee and internet access. It has provided me with a little home away from home. Four days was great to acclimatize and get my bearings in a different culture, to see the sights and do a little shopping. Churches and museums are not what turns my crank and I think I have visited almost every shop in this area. I want to see more of the scenery I´ve seen from the bus, the car and the plane.
Hot water returned at 7am - every time I think I have figured out the pattern, it goes woolly on me.
I got back from Pisac at about 12:30pm and thought I would try a new restaurant, Moni Cafe, the vegetarian one that had been highly recommended and which claimed to have the cleanest toilets in Cusco. It was locked up tighter than a safe. I keep forgetting it is Sunday. So then I tried another one in the same area - closed until September 15. Bah!
On my way back downhill, a car turned the corner very fast and almost hit a small child who was crossing without looking. The driver went up onto the sidewalk (sidewalks are about 10 inches higher than the road), scraped his side against the wall for a full 5 seconds and then continued onward without stopping. The child didn´t pause either. I did stop as I was shaking - it happened about 10 feet away from me. An impressive example of German engineering :) - the car was a VW bug.
I bought a steak sandwich (about $1.50) from the same place I been to every day and as it is my last day, bought an Inka Cola to sample along with it. Trouble was when I returned to my room, I realized I didn´t have any way to open the bottle. Typical! I shall wander down the street and ask a storeowner to open it for me. Inka Cola is a yellow pop that is only available in Peru and it is very popular. Tonight is my last night before the trek so I´m having pasta at Chez Maggie´s. I tried to get some yesterday but the cook wasn´t in until 6pm and I was starving.
I have found in Cusco I need to drink water almost continually. It is hot, yes, but very dry and my throat is often parched. The sun is much stronger and I keep forgetting to put on lotion. Today I am quite tired too and preoccupied with packing. While we are away on the Trail, the hotel stores our suitcases for the 4 days we are gone, and then we get a new room for the last night. I also have to figure out what can fit in the 6kg bag and what I have to carry. They lend out a small scale at the front desk so I can play around a bit.
Hard to believe it is my last day in Cusco. We return from Machu Picchu quite late and then the next day I am early off to fly to Lima. I must say I am ready to go, though I will miss my Trotimundo´s coffee and internet access. It has provided me with a little home away from home. Four days was great to acclimatize and get my bearings in a different culture, to see the sights and do a little shopping. Churches and museums are not what turns my crank and I think I have visited almost every shop in this area. I want to see more of the scenery I´ve seen from the bus, the car and the plane.
Pisac
At 8am, I confirmed the bus station address with the front desk and they advised against hailing a cab in the street so called me an "official" one (taxis anywhere in Cusco (with the exception of the airport) cost the same - 3 soles (about $1) and no tip is expected. When I got to the bus station (I really wish I´d remembered to take a photo), I wasn´t sure I was in the right place - just a rough courtyard with more broken-down walls - but there were several men outside directing pedestrian traffic and they quickly took charge of me. I asked the collectivo driver again just to be sure. The bus was almost full (I thought) but I got a window seat at the very back without a problem. At first I was the only tourista but then we were five. Then more people piled on and starting filling the aisles. A young man helped people pile bikes on the roof and big parcels in the trunk. Then we were off. About 5 minutes later, we stopped again and more people squeezed in. It took about 1 hour to get to Pisac. The bus stopped about 5 times to let people off and take on more. It was market day in several communities along the way. I saw a lot of people working even though it is Sunday - women and children out with llamas and sheep, farmers ploughing fields with oxen, men ankle-deep in mud making clay bricks, storekeepers open as per usual. How I wished I could have asked the bus to stop for photos - there were some great shots to be had. But how to take them in a respectful way?
Pisac is located in the Sacred Valley so there were spectacular views along the way of the mountains sloping down to the Urubamba river. On the way back it was less crowded so I tried to take some photos. The road had a very steep drop off the side, not as bad as along the Amalfi Coast, thank goodness, but it was a bit nervous-making.
The vendors were just setting up when we arrived so it was a good time to walk through and get a sense of what was available without too much hassle. Prices were better than Cusco and it was worth it to go. I spent about 2 1/2 hours there and I am quite sure I did not bargain hard enough but was happy with what I got. The torusit buses started flowing in about 10am and then it got a bit busier. At one point I went around a corner and came upon the food market - I looked everywhere for guinea pigs but was unsuccessful. When researching the trip, I found some photos of guinea pigs at the market living in fancy wooden houses, much like doll houses, right next to the cooking pot. Actually I am kind of glad I didn´t - I´m not sure how I would have got them all back to Canada. I also met a cat who was very affectionate and who did not want me to put her down, but I had to go.
I saw a bano and of course, I have to check out every town´s facilities. If you want toilet paper, you have to pay for it before going in. Hmmm. Let´s just say I almost didn´t sit down. After I came out, the old caretaker came in with a hose and showered the floor. Then I had to pay him 50 centavos.
On the way out I came across a festival in the main square. There were several groups of young people dressed in different Inkan clothing enacting certain dances. It seems every day there is a festival or band playing on the town square.
There were a few taxis waiting at the bus stop looking for tourists to drive to the top of the mountain where there are beautiful ruins. If you go, I have heard it is important to direct the driver to take you to the second parking lot, the higher of the two so you can fully enjoy the ruins. The cab driver will return to pick you up. I think one full day in Pisac would be good. Most of the bus tours from Cusco let you off at the market for about 45 minutes and then rush up to the ruins for another 30 minutes and then onto about 3 other places, rather like the old bus tours, See 5 European countries in 8 days.
When we pulled in the Cusco bus "station", there was a man urinating into a stone pool directly in front of us. He didn´t seem bothered by us pulling up right by him. Then another man from our bus went there and proceeded to do the same. It was completely visible from the street.
I had to hail a cab this time as I had no one to call one for me. I got in one and he asked me to get out as he didn´t want to go my way. But another one saw me right away and took me back to the main square, which is two blocks from my hotel.
Pisac is located in the Sacred Valley so there were spectacular views along the way of the mountains sloping down to the Urubamba river. On the way back it was less crowded so I tried to take some photos. The road had a very steep drop off the side, not as bad as along the Amalfi Coast, thank goodness, but it was a bit nervous-making.
The vendors were just setting up when we arrived so it was a good time to walk through and get a sense of what was available without too much hassle. Prices were better than Cusco and it was worth it to go. I spent about 2 1/2 hours there and I am quite sure I did not bargain hard enough but was happy with what I got. The torusit buses started flowing in about 10am and then it got a bit busier. At one point I went around a corner and came upon the food market - I looked everywhere for guinea pigs but was unsuccessful. When researching the trip, I found some photos of guinea pigs at the market living in fancy wooden houses, much like doll houses, right next to the cooking pot. Actually I am kind of glad I didn´t - I´m not sure how I would have got them all back to Canada. I also met a cat who was very affectionate and who did not want me to put her down, but I had to go.
I saw a bano and of course, I have to check out every town´s facilities. If you want toilet paper, you have to pay for it before going in. Hmmm. Let´s just say I almost didn´t sit down. After I came out, the old caretaker came in with a hose and showered the floor. Then I had to pay him 50 centavos.
On the way out I came across a festival in the main square. There were several groups of young people dressed in different Inkan clothing enacting certain dances. It seems every day there is a festival or band playing on the town square.
There were a few taxis waiting at the bus stop looking for tourists to drive to the top of the mountain where there are beautiful ruins. If you go, I have heard it is important to direct the driver to take you to the second parking lot, the higher of the two so you can fully enjoy the ruins. The cab driver will return to pick you up. I think one full day in Pisac would be good. Most of the bus tours from Cusco let you off at the market for about 45 minutes and then rush up to the ruins for another 30 minutes and then onto about 3 other places, rather like the old bus tours, See 5 European countries in 8 days.
When we pulled in the Cusco bus "station", there was a man urinating into a stone pool directly in front of us. He didn´t seem bothered by us pulling up right by him. Then another man from our bus went there and proceeded to do the same. It was completely visible from the street.
I had to hail a cab this time as I had no one to call one for me. I got in one and he asked me to get out as he didn´t want to go my way. But another one saw me right away and took me back to the main square, which is two blocks from my hotel.
Saturday, August 30, 2008
wonderful cat-sitters
I don´t want to forget my two cat-sitters; one sends me reports on how the gatos are doing. Here´s a quote which made me laugh out loud and the fellow next to me snuck a glance to see what was so funny:
"I was in your appt yacking away to the cats for about 15 minutes.. when John´s daughter came up, introduced herself and let me know John had a baby monitor set up (and on!) on your kitchen table to make sure all was fine in your appt. Oops, I hope Ï didn't say too much!"
My poor neighbour stresses about the cats more than I do when I am away. I asked him to check my messages and when I told him it was because someone would hopefully call if one was hit by a car - he was completely horrified at the thought. He said he sits on the floor very still every day until he sees each one. I am scooping out booze to take back as a gift. The local national drink is the Pisco - 34% alcohol. He complains that Guiness is a girly drink so I think that will be manly enough for him.
"I was in your appt yacking away to the cats for about 15 minutes.. when John´s daughter came up, introduced herself and let me know John had a baby monitor set up (and on!) on your kitchen table to make sure all was fine in your appt. Oops, I hope Ï didn't say too much!"
My poor neighbour stresses about the cats more than I do when I am away. I asked him to check my messages and when I told him it was because someone would hopefully call if one was hit by a car - he was completely horrified at the thought. He said he sits on the floor very still every day until he sees each one. I am scooping out booze to take back as a gift. The local national drink is the Pisco - 34% alcohol. He complains that Guiness is a girly drink so I think that will be manly enough for him.
Cusco - day 3
Today was a saint´s day, the patron saint of police. They closed off the streets around the main square and there was a huge procession of police officers carrying the Virgin Mary statue from the Cathedral, straining under the weight. Many people were there in their Sunday best. There was music and dancing by people dressed in traditional costume.
I rode the Tranvia today (about $6 for 1 1/4 hours) and it was a lot of fun. I love old trams and have taken them in many different countries. This one was bult in 1912 and strained to get up the hill to Sacsayhuamán, the ruins above the city. A young smartly-dressed guide spoke very quickly into a microphone- she had to, as she first gave the Spanish version and then the English as we drove past buildings. The route left from the Plaza de Armes, the main square, and meandered past all the various churches but also travelled through regular (ie no-tourist) Cusco past shops, schools and the university. Outside the university there was a stand selling textbooks.
On the Tranvia, I met a young woman, Mara, from Arequipa who was visiting Cusco for two days. She and I got into quite the conversation about life in Peru vs life in Canada. I am very lucky so many people speak at least a little English but it makes me feel ashamed that I am visiting their country and asking them to speak my language. I asked her about schools - parents pay directly even for public school. They can choose whether to send their children to girls-only and boys only schools or mixed is also available. There are also expensive private schools. She asked me about natural disasters and bicycles. I am not sure why she asked about natural disasters. I had trouble explaining that Canada was very big and there were different geological areas. Try doing charades with the word "earthquake" and you´ll get a sense of how unsuccessful I was! I had more success with the bike conversation. Apparently bikes are not common in Peru as the streets are only wide enough for cars and the sidewalks are too narrow as it is. We both agreed that given the high price of gasoline, it would be a good thing if they could somehow make room for bikes.
The Sacsayhuamán ruins looked interesting but the Tranvia did not allow one to get off one tram and pick up a later one at the same spot. We had 7 minutes at the top to take pictures. The view of the city below was amazing.
When I got back to town I rushed about trying to find t-shirts and postcards, soroche tablets, an ATM, a rain poncho and any other last minute Cusco souvenirs. I also decided to pamper myself and have my dirty laundry "done", which will cost me 10 soles (about $3.50).
I saw my first cats today and was very happy to be able to pet one, though he was completely disinterested. He was sleeping on a pile of wool tapestries.
I haven´t really been trying many restaurants, which is regrettable. There is a great variety of them here, like one that serves fantastic South African food. Last night I got Chinese take-out - I had a craving for some vegetables and ginger after eating nothing but bread and meat - and asked for cutlery - all they had was two tiny plastic coffee spoons so I borrowed cutlery from the hotel breakfast room. The restaurant was a blend of Chinese and Peru - a large poster of Christ next to a Chinese figurine is just one example. Anyway, the Chinese food was tasty but a mistake. No further comment needed.
Tomorrow I am taking a taxi to the bus station and then hopefully hopping on the right collectivo (bus) for Pisac, one of South America´s largest outdoor markets, one hour´s drive from Cusco. I decided not to go to the ruins there as well as I want to rest up for the trek which starts the day after.
I rode the Tranvia today (about $6 for 1 1/4 hours) and it was a lot of fun. I love old trams and have taken them in many different countries. This one was bult in 1912 and strained to get up the hill to Sacsayhuamán, the ruins above the city. A young smartly-dressed guide spoke very quickly into a microphone- she had to, as she first gave the Spanish version and then the English as we drove past buildings. The route left from the Plaza de Armes, the main square, and meandered past all the various churches but also travelled through regular (ie no-tourist) Cusco past shops, schools and the university. Outside the university there was a stand selling textbooks.On the Tranvia, I met a young woman, Mara, from Arequipa who was visiting Cusco for two days. She and I got into quite the conversation about life in Peru vs life in Canada. I am very lucky so many people speak at least a little English but it makes me feel ashamed that I am visiting their country and asking them to speak my language. I asked her about schools - parents pay directly even for public school. They can choose whether to send their children to girls-only and boys only schools or mixed is also available. There are also expensive private schools. She asked me about natural disasters and bicycles. I am not sure why she asked about natural disasters. I had trouble explaining that Canada was very big and there were different geological areas. Try doing charades with the word "earthquake" and you´ll get a sense of how unsuccessful I was! I had more success with the bike conversation. Apparently bikes are not common in Peru as the streets are only wide enough for cars and the sidewalks are too narrow as it is. We both agreed that given the high price of gasoline, it would be a good thing if they could somehow make room for bikes.
The Sacsayhuamán ruins looked interesting but the Tranvia did not allow one to get off one tram and pick up a later one at the same spot. We had 7 minutes at the top to take pictures. The view of the city below was amazing. When I got back to town I rushed about trying to find t-shirts and postcards, soroche tablets, an ATM, a rain poncho and any other last minute Cusco souvenirs. I also decided to pamper myself and have my dirty laundry "done", which will cost me 10 soles (about $3.50).
I saw my first cats today and was very happy to be able to pet one, though he was completely disinterested. He was sleeping on a pile of wool tapestries.I haven´t really been trying many restaurants, which is regrettable. There is a great variety of them here, like one that serves fantastic South African food. Last night I got Chinese take-out - I had a craving for some vegetables and ginger after eating nothing but bread and meat - and asked for cutlery - all they had was two tiny plastic coffee spoons so I borrowed cutlery from the hotel breakfast room. The restaurant was a blend of Chinese and Peru - a large poster of Christ next to a Chinese figurine is just one example. Anyway, the Chinese food was tasty but a mistake. No further comment needed.
Tomorrow I am taking a taxi to the bus station and then hopefully hopping on the right collectivo (bus) for Pisac, one of South America´s largest outdoor markets, one hour´s drive from Cusco. I decided not to go to the ruins there as well as I want to rest up for the trek which starts the day after.
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