Cusco - day 3

Today was a saint´s day, the patron saint of police. They closed off the streets around the main square and there was a huge procession of police officers carrying the Virgin Mary statue from the Cathedral, straining under the weight. Many people were there in their Sunday best. There was music and dancing by people dressed in traditional costume.

I rode the Tranvia today (about $6 for 1 1/4 hours) and it was a lot of fun. I love old trams and have taken them in many different countries. This one was bult in 1912 and strained to get up the hill to Sacsayhuamán, the ruins above the city. A young smartly-dressed guide spoke very quickly into a microphone- she had to, as she first gave the Spanish version and then the English as we drove past buildings. The route left from the Plaza de Armes, the main square, and meandered past all the various churches but also travelled through regular (ie no-tourist) Cusco past shops, schools and the university. Outside the university there was a stand selling textbooks.

On the Tranvia, I met a young woman, Mara, from Arequipa who was visiting Cusco for two days. She and I got into quite the conversation about life in Peru vs life in Canada. I am very lucky so many people speak at least a little English but it makes me feel ashamed that I am visiting their country and asking them to speak my language. I asked her about schools - parents pay directly even for public school. They can choose whether to send their children to girls-only and boys only schools or mixed is also available. There are also expensive private schools. She asked me about natural disasters and bicycles. I am not sure why she asked about natural disasters. I had trouble explaining that Canada was very big and there were different geological areas. Try doing charades with the word "earthquake" and you´ll get a sense of how unsuccessful I was! I had more success with the bike conversation. Apparently bikes are not common in Peru as the streets are only wide enough for cars and the sidewalks are too narrow as it is. We both agreed that given the high price of gasoline, it would be a good thing if they could somehow make room for bikes.

The Sacsayhuamán ruins looked interesting but the Tranvia did not allow one to get off one tram and pick up a later one at the same spot. We had 7 minutes at the top to take pictures. The view of the city below was amazing.

When I got back to town I rushed about trying to find t-shirts and postcards, soroche tablets, an ATM, a rain poncho and any other last minute Cusco souvenirs. I also decided to pamper myself and have my dirty laundry "done", which will cost me 10 soles (about $3.50).

I saw my first cats today and was very happy to be able to pet one, though he was completely disinterested. He was sleeping on a pile of wool tapestries.

I haven´t really been trying many restaurants, which is regrettable. There is a great variety of them here, like one that serves fantastic South African food. Last night I got Chinese take-out - I had a craving for some vegetables and ginger after eating nothing but bread and meat - and asked for cutlery - all they had was two tiny plastic coffee spoons so I borrowed cutlery from the hotel breakfast room. The restaurant was a blend of Chinese and Peru - a large poster of Christ next to a Chinese figurine is just one example. Anyway, the Chinese food was tasty but a mistake. No further comment needed.

Tomorrow I am taking a taxi to the bus station and then hopefully hopping on the right collectivo (bus) for Pisac, one of South America´s largest outdoor markets, one hour´s drive from Cusco. I decided not to go to the ruins there as well as I want to rest up for the trek which starts the day after.