last day in Cusco

This morning I was up at 5 as usual and no hot water as usual. So I went for breakfast. When I came back, several young men were pounding on another door trying to rouse their friend. It took about 5 minutes of yelling and kicking to open the door. What a din! I had to laugh though - Just get his shoes on and bullocks (several times) were two things I could make out. Then they carried him off to the front lobby - he was still drunk and had a silly grin on his face. I bet he got a pretty good "bullocking" later.

Hot water returned at 7am - every time I think I have figured out the pattern, it goes woolly on me.

I got back from Pisac at about 12:30pm and thought I would try a new restaurant, Moni Cafe, the vegetarian one that had been highly recommended and which claimed to have the cleanest toilets in Cusco. It was locked up tighter than a safe. I keep forgetting it is Sunday. So then I tried another one in the same area - closed until September 15. Bah!

On my way back downhill, a car turned the corner very fast and almost hit a small child who was crossing without looking. The driver went up onto the sidewalk (sidewalks are about 10 inches higher than the road), scraped his side against the wall for a full 5 seconds and then continued onward without stopping. The child didn´t pause either. I did stop as I was shaking - it happened about 10 feet away from me. An impressive example of German engineering :) - the car was a VW bug.

I bought a steak sandwich (about $1.50) from the same place I been to every day and as it is my last day, bought an Inka Cola to sample along with it. Trouble was when I returned to my room, I realized I didn´t have any way to open the bottle. Typical! I shall wander down the street and ask a storeowner to open it for me. Inka Cola is a yellow pop that is only available in Peru and it is very popular. Tonight is my last night before the trek so I´m having pasta at Chez Maggie´s. I tried to get some yesterday but the cook wasn´t in until 6pm and I was starving.

I have found in Cusco I need to drink water almost continually. It is hot, yes, but very dry and my throat is often parched. The sun is much stronger and I keep forgetting to put on lotion. Today I am quite tired too and preoccupied with packing. While we are away on the Trail, the hotel stores our suitcases for the 4 days we are gone, and then we get a new room for the last night. I also have to figure out what can fit in the 6kg bag and what I have to carry. They lend out a small scale at the front desk so I can play around a bit.

Hard to believe it is my last day in Cusco. We return from Machu Picchu quite late and then the next day I am early off to fly to Lima. I must say I am ready to go, though I will miss my Trotimundo´s coffee and internet access. It has provided me with a little home away from home. Four days was great to acclimatize and get my bearings in a different culture, to see the sights and do a little shopping. Churches and museums are not what turns my crank and I think I have visited almost every shop in this area. I want to see more of the scenery I´ve seen from the bus, the car and the plane.

Pisac

At 8am, I confirmed the bus station address with the front desk and they advised against hailing a cab in the street so called me an "official" one (taxis anywhere in Cusco (with the exception of the airport) cost the same - 3 soles (about $1) and no tip is expected. When I got to the bus station (I really wish I´d remembered to take a photo), I wasn´t sure I was in the right place - just a rough courtyard with more broken-down walls - but there were several men outside directing pedestrian traffic and they quickly took charge of me. I asked the collectivo driver again just to be sure. The bus was almost full (I thought) but I got a window seat at the very back without a problem. At first I was the only tourista but then we were five. Then more people piled on and starting filling the aisles. A young man helped people pile bikes on the roof and big parcels in the trunk. Then we were off. About 5 minutes later, we stopped again and more people squeezed in. It took about 1 hour to get to Pisac. The bus stopped about 5 times to let people off and take on more. It was market day in several communities along the way. I saw a lot of people working even though it is Sunday - women and children out with llamas and sheep, farmers ploughing fields with oxen, men ankle-deep in mud making clay bricks, storekeepers open as per usual. How I wished I could have asked the bus to stop for photos - there were some great shots to be had. But how to take them in a respectful way?

Pisac is located in the Sacred Valley so there were spectacular views along the way of the mountains sloping down to the Urubamba river. On the way back it was less crowded so I tried to take some photos. The road had a very steep drop off the side, not as bad as along the Amalfi Coast, thank goodness, but it was a bit nervous-making.

The vendors were just setting up when we arrived so it was a good time to walk through and get a sense of what was available without too much hassle. Prices were better than Cusco and it was worth it to go. I spent about 2 1/2 hours there and I am quite sure I did not bargain hard enough but was happy with what I got. The torusit buses started flowing in about 10am and then it got a bit busier. At one point I went around a corner and came upon the food market - I looked everywhere for guinea pigs but was unsuccessful. When researching the trip, I found some photos of guinea pigs at the market living in fancy wooden houses, much like doll houses, right next to the cooking pot. Actually I am kind of glad I didn´t - I´m not sure how I would have got them all back to Canada. I also met a cat who was very affectionate and who did not want me to put her down, but I had to go.

I saw a bano and of course, I have to check out every town´s facilities. If you want toilet paper, you have to pay for it before going in. Hmmm. Let´s just say I almost didn´t sit down. After I came out, the old caretaker came in with a hose and showered the floor. Then I had to pay him 50 centavos.

On the way out I came across a festival in the main square. There were several groups of young people dressed in different Inkan clothing enacting certain dances. It seems every day there is a festival or band playing on the town square.

There were a few taxis waiting at the bus stop looking for tourists to drive to the top of the mountain where there are beautiful ruins. If you go, I have heard it is important to direct the driver to take you to the second parking lot, the higher of the two so you can fully enjoy the ruins. The cab driver will return to pick you up. I think one full day in Pisac would be good. Most of the bus tours from Cusco let you off at the market for about 45 minutes and then rush up to the ruins for another 30 minutes and then onto about 3 other places, rather like the old bus tours, See 5 European countries in 8 days.

When we pulled in the Cusco bus "station", there was a man urinating into a stone pool directly in front of us. He didn´t seem bothered by us pulling up right by him. Then another man from our bus went there and proceeded to do the same. It was completely visible from the street.

I had to hail a cab this time as I had no one to call one for me. I got in one and he asked me to get out as he didn´t want to go my way. But another one saw me right away and took me back to the main square, which is two blocks from my hotel.

Cusco - day 3

Today was a saint´s day, the patron saint of police. They closed off the streets around the main square and there was a huge procession of police officers carrying the Virgin Mary statue from the Cathedral, straining under the weight. Many people were there in their Sunday best. There was music and dancing by people dressed in traditional costume.

I rode the Tranvia today (about $6 for 1 1/4 hours) and it was a lot of fun. I love old trams and have taken them in many different countries. This one was bult in 1912 and strained to get up the hill to Sacsayhuamán, the ruins above the city. A young smartly-dressed guide spoke very quickly into a microphone- she had to, as she first gave the Spanish version and then the English as we drove past buildings. The route left from the Plaza de Armes, the main square, and meandered past all the various churches but also travelled through regular (ie no-tourist) Cusco past shops, schools and the university. Outside the university there was a stand selling textbooks.

On the Tranvia, I met a young woman, Mara, from Arequipa who was visiting Cusco for two days. She and I got into quite the conversation about life in Peru vs life in Canada. I am very lucky so many people speak at least a little English but it makes me feel ashamed that I am visiting their country and asking them to speak my language. I asked her about schools - parents pay directly even for public school. They can choose whether to send their children to girls-only and boys only schools or mixed is also available. There are also expensive private schools. She asked me about natural disasters and bicycles. I am not sure why she asked about natural disasters. I had trouble explaining that Canada was very big and there were different geological areas. Try doing charades with the word "earthquake" and you´ll get a sense of how unsuccessful I was! I had more success with the bike conversation. Apparently bikes are not common in Peru as the streets are only wide enough for cars and the sidewalks are too narrow as it is. We both agreed that given the high price of gasoline, it would be a good thing if they could somehow make room for bikes.

The Sacsayhuamán ruins looked interesting but the Tranvia did not allow one to get off one tram and pick up a later one at the same spot. We had 7 minutes at the top to take pictures. The view of the city below was amazing.

When I got back to town I rushed about trying to find t-shirts and postcards, soroche tablets, an ATM, a rain poncho and any other last minute Cusco souvenirs. I also decided to pamper myself and have my dirty laundry "done", which will cost me 10 soles (about $3.50).

I saw my first cats today and was very happy to be able to pet one, though he was completely disinterested. He was sleeping on a pile of wool tapestries.

I haven´t really been trying many restaurants, which is regrettable. There is a great variety of them here, like one that serves fantastic South African food. Last night I got Chinese take-out - I had a craving for some vegetables and ginger after eating nothing but bread and meat - and asked for cutlery - all they had was two tiny plastic coffee spoons so I borrowed cutlery from the hotel breakfast room. The restaurant was a blend of Chinese and Peru - a large poster of Christ next to a Chinese figurine is just one example. Anyway, the Chinese food was tasty but a mistake. No further comment needed.

Tomorrow I am taking a taxi to the bus station and then hopefully hopping on the right collectivo (bus) for Pisac, one of South America´s largest outdoor markets, one hour´s drive from Cusco. I decided not to go to the ruins there as well as I want to rest up for the trek which starts the day after.

further impressions of Cusco

I have been surprised by a few things here and intrigued by others. The streets are devoid of litter although there are few garbage cans, all which seem to located in the squares. There is also hardly any sign of dog poop which is surprising as there are countless scruffy dogs wandering the streets. (Missing the cats, I made friends with one yesterday). This morning I was up early and saw men walking the streets sweeping the sidewalks and picking up any rare litter. Shop owners were washing their portion of the public sidewalk, much like storeowners shovelling snow back home. It seems only tourists smoke so there are few butts lying around like in Toronto.

Most locals wear fleece, sweaters and sometimes down jackets all the time. That is surprising to me as the temperature ranges from about 3 at night to 23 in the day. I peel off my sweater at about 10am and throw it back on around 4. The temperature drops quickly after that and it is generally dark by 5:30/6pm.

Driving is stereotypically chaotic but I imagine there must be a system. I have not seen an accident or close call. Inside the touristy part of Cusco where I am there are few lane markers except around the main square and traffic lights are almost non-existent. The roads are paved with flat stone blocks - larger than cobblestones but as bumpy and quite narrow. Every pedestrian is playing dodge the car. Cars pass each other on two lane, two way streets and honk when someone stops to pick up a passenger. At corners, I think they decide who has right of way by look. Yesterday our driver played chicken with a few cars that had to back up along to the extra space created for pulling over as we were in the more precarious position (ie on the steeper part of a cliff road). Drivers honk to warn of their oncoming when they believe the person or dog or sheep may step into their path. The guide told us gas was very expensive - about $2US a litre. Most of the cars here are small station wagons or hatchbacks with room to cram a few friends in the back. I have seen cars go by so full that faces are squashed against the window sideways!

I think most of the people who work in Cusco live on the outskirts and walk or take the bus in. It is quite steep heading out of Cusco, even in certain areas of downtown. I asked the guide yesterday if it was possible to buy a house and he said no, there were none available. There was no more room. People bus in and board with families or rent shared accomodation. Ellie and Thomas told me there had been a demonstration outside the Cathedral - students protesting the raise in bus fare.

Last night when I was coming here, it seemed the entire Cusco police force had turned up for some kind of drill outside the Cathedral. They all looked very smart, standing 6 deep in their uniforms. Some had long guns with bayonets attached, which I thought was unusual and hoped they were for ceremonial purposes only! A band was playing in the Square and then there was a loud bang - fireworks.

Moray/ Salineras

This morning at 9:15am, I was picked up in a small car. I had expected a tour bus like one of the multitudes going by picking tourists up from their hotels, but no, I lucked out and ended up with one driver who spoke very good English and two young honeymooners from England. So we weren´t rushed about, which was nice. There was only one problem - the tour agency that had hired his services had not paid him my admision fee for Moray and not collected admission from the couple at all. So he paid out his pocket, which later I realized left him skint for lunch - we offered him our extra sandwiches when we saw he wasn´t eating but it wasn´t until later I clicked a rueful damm. Of course, Ellie and Thomas paid him but he was very hestitant in asking, like we would be angry with him instead of the travel agency. One amusing part was along the way he stopped the car by the side of the road and stuffed a friend into the back of the hatchback to give him a lift.

Both places are located about 1 hour to 1 1/2 hours outside of Cusco and at a lower altitude. I didn´t really notice a difference except for my headache being gone. On the way back, Ellie offered me a cocoa candy - finally this afternoon I bought some of my own!

Of the two, I preferred Salineras, the salt pools. They were simply stunning with the contrast of the Andes and the valley below. Moray was also very beautiful and comes with a fascinating Inca history. I took a lot of photos but think the postcards make them both look better than I could ever get.

In driving out of the city, we saw a lot of farmers living in and around smaller communities. There were cows, sheep, chickens running all over the place. A few times we had to stop and honk to get them off the road. I haven´t seen a llama yet (or a guinea pig, you naughty people!) except for the woman who dresses up anmd comes into downtown Cusco with her llama to pose for photos (1 sole each).

Cusco - day one

The flight in was short (about 1 hour 10 minutes), bouncey and packed. Beautiful views of the Andes on the left side of the plane. I wasn´t given any opportunity to choose my seat. I was placed next to two women - I offered them Mentos; in exchange, one gave me a candy to suck made of coca. It tasted pretty good and I think got me through the first stages of the attitude change. After collecting my suitcase, I looked for the GAP rep and couldn´t find him - walked outside and there were all the agents holding signs. By this time, I was almost silly with exhaustion but eager to look out the window on the way into the downtown area. Everywhere dogs running loose, women cooking in large pots by the side of the road, quite a bit of dust.

At the hotel, I was very early for check-in but they scrambled to find me a room. While I was waiting, they served me coca tea. The room is small but adequate and yeah, there is hot water. Coca tea is free 24 hours a day by the reception. I may have to request a change as it is right on the main floor where everyone passes by, but I´ll wait to see. There is a security box at the front desk - I deposited half my cash, my visa and my passport. My iPod is small enough to just travel with me, and of coure I won´t let my friend´s camera out of my sight. The hotel is very close to the main square. I haven´t gotten lost yet but expect to. No worries. I did ask where the "dangerous" section of town was so won´t be heading in that direction.

After sitting for a few minutes to catch my breath, I suddenly felt very dizzy and light-headed. It was then I realized it had been about 25 hours since I slept. I pulled a pillow over my head and crashed for 3 1/2 hours.

The one thing about many of the restaurants here is that they are on the second floor and big signs like we have in Canada are nowhere to be found. I am glad I wrote down some addresses, like this place opposite the cathedral on the main square, Trotamundos. You have to walk through another store to reach the stairs. It has a beautiful view across the sqaure - I ate an avocado sandwich and had a good North American coffee sin leche on the balcony (aprox. $3 if I remember correctly) - faster internet connection, and clean washrooms.

After lunch I visited the South American Explorers Club for advice on the bus to Pisac (apparently easy), to ask for recommneded tour guides for Moray. The trip to Moray has turned into a frustration as the tour agency they recommended wanted a minimum of 4 people and I was unable to find LlamaPath, the one I had planned to go with. I will have to try one of the travel "hawkers" as I want to go tomorrow. I was hoping to book for the morning and have a massage in the afternoon.

I had heard stories about really pushy sellers here but so far no one has been super persistent. I found they were far more aggressive in Puerto Vallarta.

Anyway I still want to try to arrange this tour, so I´m going to sign off now and get back on the hunt.

Cusco restaurant reviews

How can one pass this up?

Moni Cafe... Pleasing oxygen starved customers since 2001

especially with the enticing phrase

We also use a natural disinfectant to ensure that our ingredients are completely safe for you.

and on another page:

Our toilet has often been described as the cleanest in Perú which we have chosen to take as a compliment.

I'll let you know.